Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I'm currently building another RB26 race engine. Trying to refine a few things while doing this. 

Ideally I want to run a square edge bore with a super thin headgasket (0.8mm) that is the same as the bore diameter (86.5mm). Unfortunately, there are lack of items in this size and combination.

I have decided to run a 87mm gasket but I absolutely want to run the grommet / fire ring style. Nitto has exactly this. Unfortunately Nitto only makes 88mm diameter and 1.2mm head gaskets. 

I am looking at the Nismo 0.9mm gasket, they have this in the 87mm variant. But, I cannot find any details about them at all. I have searched for part numbers, Nismo directly, etc and cannot get any information. 

Question 1 is, what style of sealing are Nismo headgaskets? Are they are grommet style? Does anyone here have a Nismo gasket on hand they can look at for me? 
https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-head-gasket-0-9mm-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34-wgnc34.html

Question 2 is, is there anything that anyone can recommend that is 87mm, 1mm or below, and grommet style? 

Thanks

grommet.jpg

Edited by The Mafia

Trying to get the most optimal quench zone. Going to almost square bore edges and a super thin gasket with the best squish. This helps reduce detonation, increases combustion chamber efficiency, and also helps with strength.

It's not a huge gain but every little bit counts.

It's for my circuit race car. I've got 9.5:1 pistons, and will opt for a 0.8mm head gasket. should get be a nice 9.8:1 with a really good combustion chamber. 

Car is E85 only so won't be an issue with knock ceilings. 

  • Like 1
On 12/07/2021 at 8:34 AM, The Mafia said:

Trying to get the most optimal quench zone

Like what you're trying to do!

Yet there are still people in 2021 who grind out their cylinder heads to go backwards.

I agree. Bevelling the edges and having a thin gas layer in the quench zone, and 88mm gasket on a 86.5mm bore is not going to help things. These all aid detonation. This is why you see a lot of RB26s with detonation on the quench pads. 

Getting that mixture to the center of the chamber is important. A thin gasket that is the same diamater as the bore or as close as possible (0.5mm bigger max) is the best way to do it. 

The only time you really need to remove the quench area and increase the chamber size is if you are running 50-60-70-80-90psi of boost. 

Static comp with 90psi is quite high so you need to generally lower the compression overall. 

I've always put Tomei gaskets into cars I've helped build and in my own

They use the same grommet style characteristic as the Nitto one, here's a 87mm @ 1.0mm variant.

https://frsport.com/products/tomei-1321870103-headgasket-87mm-bore-1-0-mm-thickness-rb26dett

 

Edit: Realised it out of stock and discontinued in the 1mm variant, however you could try channels like Jesse Streeter, etc. to see if they can locate one for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...