Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anybody used this business?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/324214320233?fits=Plat_Gen%3AR33&hash=item4b7cadec69:g:lUoAAOSw1fJe-qI~&frcectupt=true

If so, what was the service and quality of the finished item like?

He said he will do one for my R33 [I am sending him an old wheel and he will use the centre] and I have to admit the price and photo's of the finished product look pretty much exactly what I want.  Also messages to and fro are confidence building, he seems genuine.  But I would value other peoples experience....if any.

Reason for doing this is, my car never came with a standard wheel [over 20 years ago] and all I ever did was use use a SAAS leather/CF wheel, but finally last rego check my trusty mechanic quizzed me about it and said that I should really have an airbag wheel, so I'm trying to find one before next rego while retaining the same style of my present wheel.  I am friends with him and don't want to compromise his business.

BTW I have been pulled over a couple of times by the lice, but they have never questioned my steering wheel....yet but it will happen sooner or later.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482634-flash-steering-wheel/
Share on other sites

I would suggest that that wheel would be no more legal than what you're using now. Sure, it will have an airbag.....but it is effectively a one off handmade thing that has no type testing at all. That is the very antithesis of ADR requirements and wouldn't stand up to 3s of scrutiny at a true roadworthy check (such as at the actual DMV, not some mechanic's roadworthy). I think you're just going to be spending money for money spending's sake here, rather than actually achieving anything useful.

I would go OEM

Are you willing to trust an aftermarket wheel with a "custom fitted" airbag to not kill you if it goes off

Does anyone else in your family drive the car?

When a explosion is going off 400-500mm away from your face.......

On 18/07/2021 at 6:06 PM, mlr said:

I would go OEM

Are you willing to trust an aftermarket wheel with a "custom fitted" airbag to not kill you if it goes off

Does anyone else in your family drive the car?

When a explosion is going off 400-500mm away from your face.......

I think those wheels use the oem centre and airbag so it is still the same, they just make a new wheel around the centre.

On 19/07/2021 at 8:05 AM, hardsteppa said:

I think those wheels use the oem centre and airbag so it is still the same, they just make a new wheel around the centre.

You are correct Hardsteppa....BTW also stated this in my initial post.  I was just looking for any feedback.....but looks like I'm going to be the first on here.

And GTSBoy...I hear ya....but I'm not sure if the legalities of this wheel are as bad as you say.  I could buy a second hand questionable condition Momo  with airbag etc, but are they any more compliant?  I could also go lowbrow and buy a leatherette cover and kit and sew it onto a standard wheel but that's a Kmart fix and tbh not even on my radar.  The only real 'integrity' issue is the weld of the wheel hoop to the standard centre.  I'll ask for pics of this work and see how their welds look, but if I was doing it then its not a hard weld to do.  Its not like its an upside down weld in water with dissimilar/questionable metals or something.

  • 5 weeks later...

Hi Guys.

I live in Melbourne and went overseas for a couple months. I have a R33 skyline 1996 S2 and I stored my car in my friends garage and thought it would be a good idea to remove the battery and steering wheel to make it harder if somebody tries to steal the car as I already have two skylines stolen from me. As I removed the steering wheel I noticed that the film from the sensor moved slightly. Is this going to effect the airbag system? is there a danger that the airbag might blow now after the installation? many thanks

 

 

IMG_3508.JPG

IMG_3514.JPG

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Small update...just finished sanding and painting the exposed steel, 

Does anyone know the year model of steering wheels?  The one I had modified has a largish [approx 50mm] side covers.   It also has a black airbag cover but grey rear plastic   turns out it was black, just a bit faded and dusty.  it has an all steel centre.

I also have another one that has small [approx 20mm] side covers.  This one is all black, but red stitching, with an alloy centre.  It is also slightly smaller in diameter.  Wanted to get this one modified but I couldn't find it - just shifted into my new address and am still sorting stuff out.

Think I'll see if I can put the all black items on my modded wheel, see if the steel and alloy are the same shape and size?

Tried that, didn't work, the two steering wheels are different, the back plastic cover for the other wheel is smaller.

So now I will have to get a can of black vinyl paint and give the plastic parts a freshen up. 

 

Steering Wheel1.jpg

Steering Wheel2.jpg

Ok looking for one of these to complete my wheel:  if anyone has one they are willing to sell?  The guy who sold me the wheel ripped me off, also said he would send the part - apparently he found it - this never ever happened.  They are marked L and R, I need the left one.

IMG_20211103_160244.jpg

IMG_20211103_160252.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Small update...raining too much to work on the car outside so not installed yet.  The modified one is photographed alongside a Mk 3 Gtr wheel.  I think it is anyway, I bought a a heap of series 3 GTR stuff off a guy including factory leather seats and the 'red' door cards, so I'm thinking the wheel came from the same guy, but I'm not sure, its been too long. 

 

NB Still looking for the small l/h cover as per previous post if anyone has one?

 

Steering Wheel3.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...