Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clutch pedal dropped and didnt come back. Fluid was on MIn so we filled and still nothing. Towed home yet one more time. When bleeding the master cylinder the bleed valve was letting most of the fluis out of the threads. And I also noticed the tabs on the cap were not lining up with the ones on the reservoir. See pic.   20211002_170409.thumb.jpg.528b335a1c15c713ec93ebeb9d159972.jpg

20211002_170405.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482871-clutch-capnipple/
Share on other sites

unless I'm mistaken, the tabs on the cap are not meant to line up, they stop it turning further when you twist it on?

Re the bleeder, when you say it was leaking via the threads was this before or after you undid it to bleed. If the bleeder is blocked it will only leak via the threads which will also make it pretty much impossible to bleed as there is nothing stopping air being pulled back in. Pull it out and see if you can clean it, if not just replace it, any decent parts shop should be able to match it (no location on your profile so I can't advise better on that)

On 10/3/2021 at 1:37 AM, Duncan said:

unless I'm mistaken, the tabs on the cap are not meant to line up, they stop it turning further when you twist it on?

Re the bleeder, when you say it was leaking via the threads was this before or after you undid it to bleed. If the bleeder is blocked it will only leak via the threads which will also make it pretty much impossible to bleed as there is nothing stopping air being pulled back in. Pull it out and see if you can clean it, if not just replace it, any decent parts shop should be able to match it (no location on your profile so I can't advise better on that)

Apologies for the location...North Carolina US

I think you're correct about the tabs. Strange design. If the cap tabs were slightly longer they'd lock in nice.

As for the bleeder, I did go to a local parts store and they had nothing. There is a JDM parts place nearby but they close weekends. I'm going to replace it. I pulled it out all the way and fluid continued to seep out of the cylinder. It was rusted and seems to be blocked 

On 10/2/2021 at 6:08 PM, blind_elk said:

Check the pedal box hasn't broken.

Check under the car that the pushrod hasn't popped out of the slave cylinder - points to a broken pivot ball.

Will do. I've only owned two manual shifts in my day and never had a reason to do anything clutch related. Both had really low mileage and were less than 10 years old. 

 

Just checked at the firewall to see if any fluid has leaked and didnt see anything.

No fluid under the vehicle either

Yesterday did a bleed and pedal was getting better. Took cap off to top off fluid and pedal hit the floor on the next bleed try. I'm going to change the rusted bleeder valve asap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...