Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone else had this problem? I can drive my R33 down twisty roads or through the city and it drives fine. However, once I get on the interstate, it only takes about 6 minutes, the HICAS light comes on and then the engine starts cutting out if I try to accelerate. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and yes, I know, I need to delete the HICAS from my car. 

On 3/16/2022 at 2:15 AM, joshuaho96 said:

Have you tried pulling the codes from the ECU and HICAS CU?

I just had my ecu changed out for a Haltech and the guy who installed it had been swamped. I plan to take it to him when he isn't as busy. I do not have the standard HICAS CU mounted in the truck either. 

On 3/17/2022 at 6:43 PM, BDUB2K21 said:

I just had my ecu changed out for a Haltech and the guy who installed it had been swamped. I plan to take it to him when he isn't as busy. I do not have the standard HICAS CU mounted in the truck either. 

You really should consider providing all relevant information at the beginning.

Point 1....ECU. Not stock right? So....totally unlikely that anybody else's experience is likely to replicate whatever wiring f**kup was done that caused the HICAS to interfere with engine operation.

Point 2. What do you mean "I do not have the standard HICAS CU"? If you have no HICAS CU, then how can you expect anything other than trouble with your HICAS? I mean - at least you'd hope the electric rear rack would lock up, but it could be quite weird. And the HICAS light shouldn't come on if there's no CU to make it come on....so what is that dashlight wired up to? And how is it that your power steering is still working if you have removed the HICAS CU?

Ok, going back to the beginning...I bought the car pretty much stock with only an after-market engine air filter. No problems with the HICAS light coming on anytime. I watched some videos on YouTube showing how easy it was to delete the HICAS. After I checked the trunk where the standalone HICAS ECU should be, it isn't. I only have one ECU in the trunk and it isn't the HICAS. I started having problems with the HICAS light coming on approx 6 minutes into driving on the interstate and then the engine performance is seriously degraded. Sorry for not explaining every detail before. 

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2016/11/does-your-hicas-light-turn-on-after.html

Start with this diagnostic for the HICAS. Engine diagnostics are separate from HICAS. If someone has messed with the wiring there's realistically no way for any of us to give you a useful answer though. You're going to have to see how it's actually wired up now and go from there.

Edited by joshuaho96

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...