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R34 Trans Clutch Bleed Question

Templim

By Templim,
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Templim

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Hello, I have a r34 GTT trans and I cant figure out why my clutch pedal isn't able to work properly. I bled the clutch master and clutch slave which are both new parts. I made sure the clutch master is being pushed in all the way but it isnt working. The clutch pedal will go down to the floor slowly and not come up. I took a video of the clutch slave pushrod and it barely pushes the fork.

I've seen in other forums that you can bleed the clutch from a 3rd spot on the trans and I attached a picture of an r34 gtt trans and drew a green circle around the point. I'm curious if that's the 3rd spot that can be bled for the clutch.

If you guys have any other suggestions I would love to hear them!

Thank you!

 

AY5T8401__61978.jpg

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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No. That is on the gearbox itself and has nothing to do with the clutch.

If there are no bubbles coming out of the slave cylinder bleed point while you bleed it, then the clutch is probably properly bled. In that case, your symptoms could suggest that there is a problem in the clutch itself. it, broken fork, collapsed thrust bearing, collapsed diaphragm, etc.

Templim Contributor

Templim

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On 8/12/2022 at 1:48 AM, GTSBoy said:

No. That is on the gearbox itself and has nothing to do with the clutch.

If there are no bubbles coming out of the slave cylinder bleed point while you bleed it, then the clutch is probably properly bled. In that case, your symptoms could suggest that there is a problem in the clutch itself. it, broken fork, collapsed thrust bearing, collapsed diaphragm, etc.

The transmission is completely new from Nissan. The clutch and everything is new too. Only new parts are used in this. Do you still believe the same thing?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
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Yup. Assembly error in the clutch/fork/thrust would be number one suspect. That's assuming that you've bled the clutch properly. There is no internet diagnosis for saying that the clutch is properly bled but not having properly bled it.

Have you used a power bleeder?

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joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

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I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Templim Contributor

Templim

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On 8/12/2022 at 2:36 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder. 

 

On 8/12/2022 at 1:53 AM, GTSBoy said:

Yup. Assembly error in the clutch/fork/thrust would be number one suspect. That's assuming that you've bled the clutch properly. There is no internet diagnosis for saying that the clutch is properly bled but not having properly bled it.

Have you used a power bleeder?

Okay, I power bleed both the master cylinder and slave cylinder. The clutch still isn't acting the way it should. It feels better than what it was before (Which isnt saying much lol). I took the slave cylinder off and the fork is impossible to push with my hands.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

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On 8/21/2022 at 4:51 PM, Templim said:

 

Okay, I power bleed both the master cylinder and slave cylinder. The clutch still isn't acting the way it should. It feels better than what it was before (Which isnt saying much lol). I took the slave cylinder off and the fork is impossible to push with my hands.

If you have verified that the master and slave cylinder are working as expected all I can think of is something is wrong with how the clutch was put together. Either that or you somehow have a pressure plate so strong that it's damaging everything and you should probably stop using it before you destroy your thrust bearings.

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