Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm currently rebuilding my first skyline from the ground up. I was wondering what the best route for the cooling system would be and what are people's current setups and power levels. I'm hoping to hit around 400hp when I'm finished but want to know if I should use an aftermarket rad and shroud with electric fans or if the stock rad and fan/shroud is the way to go?

I've read some posts and seems alot of people are getting higher temps when going aftermarket and even higher when using the AC too. 

As the title suggests I'm building a r33 gtst with a rb25det.

Any tips or information is appreciated thank you!

Edited by Disco18
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483984-r33-gtst-cooling-system/
Share on other sites

There is no issue with the standard fan up to 300kw, you will probably want a larger radiator to go with it.

Among the most common cooling issues is unnecessarily changing the stock fan for a poorly set up electric fan.

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

I used a Fennix radiator in mine with stock fan and shroud with the stock undertray

I was making around 500hp

Never had a issue......with coolant temps

I did have a oil cooler though which would have helped

  • Thanks 1
On 31/08/2022 at 12:37 PM, The Bogan said:

I used a Fennix radiator in mine with stock fan and shroud with the stock undertray

I was making around 500hp

Never had a issue......with coolant temps

I did have a oil cooler though which would have helped

Well thats good to know, I was looking at getting a fennix but have heard they are hit and miss, but i think that's more because people were using a poor electric fan setup. Do everything still fit or was there some adjustments you had to make?

On 31/08/2022 at 12:02 PM, Duncan said:

There is no issue with the standard fan up to 300kw, you will probably want a larger radiator to go with it.

Among the most common cooling issues is unnecessarily changing the stock fan for a poorly set up electric fan.

Thats good to hear, I didn't want to be one of those guys who pays 300 for fans and shroud when the stock setup is actually just as good if not better anyway. Any radiator recommendations? I was looking at fennix because they are a little cheaper than a koyo but still not 100% sure if they are a solid choice.

As others have said an upgraded rad and stock fan & SHROUD will have no issues. If ever swap to electric fan use a quality spal or maradyne fan with a properly designed shroud.
Biggest thing is bleeding the system properly to remove all air pockets, a vacuum bleeder does a pretty good job first time.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...