Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone have a photo of the bracket that holds the G-Force Sensor? 

When i got the car, i found that the g-force sensor was removed completely and only the 2 wire harness were there. I purchased a new digital g-sensor but then realized that it mounts on a bracket but i have no idea what this looks like. 

If anyone has a photo of it that would be really helpful for me to design a new bracket

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484168-photo-of-bracket-for-g-sensor/
Share on other sites

Unfortunately the shape is a little fiddly, eg from google image search for "ATTESSA sensor"

Picture 1 of 6

You don't need to have something identical, in my manual converted stagea it has been custom mounted and working OK for about 15 years.  It does need to be pointing forward (as it las separate lateral and longitudinal sensors) and reasonably level when parked (for the same reason), and ideally towards the centre of the wheelbase

Thank you so

On 11/1/2022 at 4:10 PM, Duncan said:

There are a pair of studs in the chassis, your right arrow is correct but the other stud is on the opposite corner. Pic from my car

image.jpeg

Thank you so much for this picture! 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/1/2022 at 4:10 PM, Duncan said:

There are a pair of studs in the chassis, your right arrow is correct but the other stud is on the opposite corner. Pic from my car

image.jpeg

Thanks again @Duncan i was able to 3D scan the interior section and I made a custom bracket and 3d printed a custom peice to mount to the bracket. Without your photo for reference, i wouldn't have been able to do it. Thanks. 

image.thumb.png.f52cf5a93fcd24c080e6897b113cbe0a.pngIMG_3637.thumb.JPG.28ae10709cce5c9f85616240ec66606d.JPGIMG_3638.thumb.PNG.94f7729c1d491c08986d2e34b9895ff6.PNG

image.thumb.png.bb9907b1e21dd944482d21754a3eb73c.png

 

It's actually 2 parts i had to make. 

1. Adapter plate for the Do-Luck G-Force Sensor (3D printed). I found that the do-luck sensor was already using 3d printed components so i just removed the 4 screws that holds on the bottom part and created a larger plate to screw into the 2nd bracket. 

image.thumb.png.a0c8de5fbc1d0475e4d859ed6c84e55c.png

2. Sheet metal plate that 14gauge mild steel, that bolts onto the 2 studs that the factory G-force sensor bolts onto. 

And yes, absolutely, the sheet metal plate is just a .dxf file that you can share with any sheet metal manufacturer and they will be able to re-create it for you. And the 3D printed file for the g-force sensor to mount is just a standard .STL file that you can load on any 3D printer. 

 

Let me know if anyone wants them, i can share it with them. keep in mind it's specific to the Do-Luck but at this point i can adjust it to accommodate anything. 

 

  • Like 1
16 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The sheetmetal part looks like 15 minutes work in my shed with the panbrake.

yep essentially. I dont have a garage yet with all the tools so i send it off to a manufacturer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...