Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all! I was wondering how much kw I would be looking at after my build Is complete! 

Rb25det 

Spool imports rods

Ross racing pistons

Race bearings

Billet crank

Mls metal head gasket

Arp head, clutch, rear main bolts

Nismo 1000cc injectors.

Larger fuel rail

Fuel regulator

Walbro 460lph

Exedy 690mn sports clutch and lightweight flywheel wheel.

R35 coil pack.

Gt3582 

Haltech platium

Wideband, fuel, oil, coolant, knock, afr sensors

Laptop in passenger seat for peace of mind.

Upgraded exhaust obiously.

Screamer pipe

52mm external gate.

Front mount intercooler fenix 

Fenix fat radiator.

Fenix twin rad fans

Last but not least.

 

Carbon fibre fuse box

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484487-forged-rb-power/
Share on other sites

Thank god for the laptop in the passenger seat. 
fuse box is going to be minimum 40kw.

gt3582 what?

what size exhaust? 
what sort of manifold?

What fuel?

how long is a piece of string?

seriously search the dyno results thread. Things like this have been covered many times before

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484487-forged-rb-power/#findComment-7976372
Share on other sites

These things are the only things that really determine your power.

9 hours ago, Rhyss_r33 said:

Nismo 1000cc injectors.

Gt3582 

Can't make more power than the injectors will flow (which maxes out in the territory of 1000 engine HP on 98) and can't make more power than a GT3582 will at the boost and flow you'd get out on the top RH edge of the map against a 2.5l engine (whilst maintaining a reasonable compressor efficiency so it doesn't get all hot and stupid, of course).

9 hours ago, Rhyss_r33 said:

Front mount intercooler fenix 

This may or may not be a good choice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484487-forged-rb-power/#findComment-7976373
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...