Jump to content
SAU Community

Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)

djvoodoo
 Share

Recommended Posts

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted

I kinda have an idea, and there is some bits and pieces on the forums about it.

Looking to do the "Mines R34" diff gearing in the Getrag 6 speed. I want to retain the A-LSD in the Vspec more for the "PuRiTy" aspect of having a Vspec.

Is it a matter of more or less just using the pinion and gears into the existing rear Diff housing?

So: from an R33 or 32 GTR

Front diff pinion/gears

Rear diff pinion/gears

Rear axles/ shafts as the lenghts are different?

Is that basically it?

 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

Rear axles/ shafts as the lenghts are different?

If you're just changing the CW&P, then nothing else in the diff changes and you don't need to consider the axles (neither the stubs or driveshafts).

I presume that it is nothing more than CW&P required at each end of the car, seeing as it's been done any number of times by others. If it was a circus, you'd hear about it being a circus.

  • 1 year later...
djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Jumbotron said:

Hi did you end up doing the 4.11 gears? Is it only the front and rear CW&P that needs to be changed?

I now have 4.11's - But, not a straight fit for the 34 Vspec. The 33/32 CW&P does not mesh inside the 34 A-LSD diff housing (different wheel to pinion thickness)

In order to retain the A-LSD, i bought a 33 Vspec rear diff.

Front is the same across 32/33/34.

 

  • Thanks 1
Jumbotron Rookie

Jumbotron

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, djvoodoo said:

I now have 4.11's - But, not a straight fit for the 34 Vspec. The 33/32 CW&P does not mesh inside the 34 A-LSD diff housing (different wheel to pinion thickness)

In order to retain the A-LSD, i bought a 33 Vspec rear diff.

Front is the same across 32/33/34.

 

Thanks for confirming glad it worked out in the end. For the r33 vspec rear diff is it a direct swap, any modifications or r33 driveshafts needed? 

Also do you mind sharing where you sourced parts from? Having trouble finding front CWP or front diff from r32/33

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, Jumbotron said:

Thanks for confirming glad it worked out in the end. For the r33 vspec rear diff is it a direct swap, any modifications or r33 driveshafts needed? 

Also do you mind sharing where you sourced parts from? Having trouble finding front CWP or front diff from r32/33

33Vspec diff direct swap. No other modifications needed to the 34 rear end.

Initially, was hard to source the 33 vspec diff at a reasonable price. I found 1 at JustJap.

Otherwise Yahoo auctions, or go through an importer like ImportMonster etc

  • Thanks 1
Old man 32 GTR Proficient

Old man 32 GTR

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Jumbotron said:

Also do you mind sharing where you sourced parts from? Having trouble finding front CWP or front diff from r32/33

If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either! 
they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back. 

  • Thanks 1
Jumbotron Rookie

Jumbotron

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either! 
they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back. 

Yea their stuff looks very nice but man 4k for front and rear CWP 😭

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either! 
they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back. 

Neat don't yet make the CWP for the 34 vspec A-LSD. I know this because i was talking to them about it last year. They were looking to source a Vspec diff to get the measurements

  • 4 weeks later...
Heyyob22 Newbie

Heyyob22

Posted
Posted
On 4/9/2024 at 1:43 AM, djvoodoo said:

I now have 4.11's - But, not a straight fit for the 34 Vspec. The 33/32 CW&P does not mesh inside the 34 A-LSD diff housing (different wheel to pinion thickness)

In order to retain the A-LSD, i bought a 33 Vspec rear diff.

Front is the same across 32/33/34.

 

Hey just wondering how does the car drive now with the 4.11 gears now, was there any problems driving with the R33 A-lsd? Also did you upgrade the front diff when you changed to 4.11 gears? 

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 hours ago, Heyyob22 said:

Hey just wondering how does the car drive now with the 4.11 gears now, was there any problems driving with the R33 A-lsd? Also did you upgrade the front diff when you changed to 4.11 gears? 

It's good, but not as good as some people make it out to be on social media. Yes, you can feel the torque come in earlier, yes, it does make the car feel more lively below 4000rpm, and yes, it does feel more responsive, but it's not this 'unicorn' mod. 

Everyday driving? Below 100km/h on Australian roads, it's worth it. At 110km in 6th gear mine will sit on about 2860rpm.

Doing a Motorkhana or a small circuit? Yes, it's worth it.

Doing Texas style speed runs? Prob not.

Do you use the gears more? Yes and No. Doing 60/70km on most roads, I'm using the gears just like any other Getrag. 80km and above, you use 5th and 6th more often.

Absolutely no issues driving with the 33 A-LSD.

Didn't change the front diff, only changed the C&P wheel. Some people say to upgrade to a Quaife etc, but i've had no issue with torque steer or having it wander all over the road.

The one thing that no-one really addresses is the issue of the Speedo being out. It's either use a speedo corrector, find a 33 gearbox speed sensor, or use an aftermarket display with GPS speedo.

  • Like 2
Heyyob22 Newbie

Heyyob22

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, djvoodoo said:

It's good, but not as good as some people make it out to be on social media. Yes, you can feel the torque come in earlier, yes, it does make the car feel more lively below 4000rpm, and yes, it does feel more responsive, but it's not this 'unicorn' mod. 

Everyday driving? Below 100km/h on Australian roads, it's worth it. At 110km in 6th gear mine will sit on about 2860rpm.

Doing a Motorkhana or a small circuit? Yes, it's worth it.

Doing Texas style speed runs? Prob not.

Do you use the gears more? Yes and No. Doing 60/70km on most roads, I'm using the gears just like any other Getrag. 80km and above, you use 5th and 6th more often.

Absolutely no issues driving with the 33 A-LSD.

Didn't change the front diff, only changed the C&P wheel. Some people say to upgrade to a Quaife etc, but i've had no issue with torque steer or having it wander all over the road.

The one thing that no-one really addresses is the issue of the Speedo being out. It's either use a speedo corrector, find a 33 gearbox speed sensor, or use an aftermarket display with GPS speedo.

Thank you for the info! 
 

Did you get a 33 gearbox speed sensor to have your speedometer to work?

Does the Speedo work but not accurate? 

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, Heyyob22 said:

Thank you for the info! 
 

Did you get a 33 gearbox speed sensor to have your speedometer to work?

Does the Speedo work but not accurate? 

Speedo is out by about 12-15% I.E - If doing a road speed of 100km, the speedo is showing about 115km.

The 33 GTR speed sensor is almost impossible to come by. I was lucky enough that someone on FB marketplace was selling an entire gearbox, and i just politely asked to buy the speed sensor off him. I have not installed it yet though..

I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit.

Lucky for me, i use a Powertune digital dash in the 34 MFD cluster. I have the GPS unit, but the dash also has a speed offset function in which you can choose the offset percentage. So i just bang in an offset of 15% and the digital display shows the correct speed on the MFD.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
47 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit.

It's not ideal, by any means, but I think many of the horror stories are because of people not understanding what it is, what it does, what their VSS that they need to modify looks like and whether the Jaycar unit is applicable.

In principle, it is relatively easy to build a device to take in an AC variable (peak) voltage variable frequency signal (which is what you get from most Nissan speed senders) and just spit out a constant (peak) voltage variable frequency AC signal at a different (modified) frequency.

  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...
Jumbotron Rookie

Jumbotron

Posted
Posted
On 5/5/2024 at 5:30 PM, djvoodoo said:

Speedo is out by about 12-15% I.E - If doing a road speed of 100km, the speedo is showing about 115km.

The 33 GTR speed sensor is almost impossible to come by. I was lucky enough that someone on FB marketplace was selling an entire gearbox, and i just politely asked to buy the speed sensor off him. I have not installed it yet though..

I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit.

Lucky for me, i use a Powertune digital dash in the 34 MFD cluster. I have the GPS unit, but the dash also has a speed offset function in which you can choose the offset percentage. So i just bang in an offset of 15% and the digital display shows the correct speed on the MFD.

Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...