Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. I have an R34 GT-R Spec V here in the States - one of the few legally-imported Midnight Purple 2 ones - and recently noted it was leaking some fluid. I took it to a local mechanic and they said they could see what appeared to be leaks in two places - the transfer case and another further forward. Unfortunately here in the States it's very hard to find any shops or mechanics well-versed in Skylines but especially the R34 since only a handful have been imported legally so I was hoping I could get some help here to track down what could be causing the leaks and what fix is needed. I'd also appreciate any input on whether this is a sign of some major issue or not. The leaks aren't bad - it's mainly just a very slow drip - but of course I don't want to ignore a potential issue.

The car has about 140K of mileage on it. AFAIK the engine was rebuilt in Japan about 30K ago but other than a switch to an ATS twin plate clutch and routine maintenance the driveline hasn't been messed with. The car's been running well and I haven't noticed any changes in driving behavior before or after discovering the leak.

Here are photos the mechanic took of the leaks. I'd like to mention that I myself have just fairly basic mechanical knowledge (I can do basic maintenance and have done simple mechanical work like installing bolt-on parts like exhausts and such but I leave major stuff to experts) so please forgive me if I seem clueless on certain things. Thanks in advance for any help.

IMG_1875.jpg

IMG_1876.jpg

IMG_1877.jpg

IMG_1880.jpg

IMG_1881.jpg

IMG_1886.jpg

IMG_1887.jpg

IMG_1888.jpg

OK, you are right, your mechanic doesn't know what they are looking at.

The best way to investigate an oil leak is to thoroughly degrease any apparent leak, drive for a day or 3, then put back up on the hoist and check again.

The first oil is almost certainly from when the oil filter was changed (unless the filter is relocated, you can check by looking under the front 1/3 of the plenum for the oil filter. From there you can see that whenever you change the filter, you will drop 300ml of oil on top of the front diff, which then runs down the front of the front diff (pic 1, 2, 7) and steering rack (6)

The other point that appears to be leaking is the ATTESSA/4wd actuator at the rear of the transfer case, the leak might be either the line that goes into the actuator or the flange where the actuator bolts to the transfer case. It is hard to tell because there is a bit of oil there. Step 1 I would back off the nut on the hose that goes into the actuator about 12 turn, then tighten it up again, this is a common leakage point over time.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GSX-R35 said:

Hello everyone. I have an R34 GT-R Spec V here in the States - one of the few legally-imported Midnight Purple 2 ones - and recently noted it was leaking some fluid. I took it to a local mechanic and they said they could see what appeared to be leaks in two places - the transfer case and another further forward. Unfortunately here in the States it's very hard to find any shops or mechanics well-versed in Skylines but especially the R34 since only a handful have been imported legally so I was hoping I could get some help here to track down what could be causing the leaks and what fix is needed. I'd also appreciate any input on whether this is a sign of some major issue or not. The leaks aren't bad - it's mainly just a very slow drip - but of course I don't want to ignore a potential issue.

The car has about 140K of mileage on it. AFAIK the engine was rebuilt in Japan about 30K ago but other than a switch to an ATS twin plate clutch and routine maintenance the driveline hasn't been messed with. The car's been running well and I haven't noticed any changes in driving behavior before or after discovering the leak.

Here are photos the mechanic took of the leaks. I'd like to mention that I myself have just fairly basic mechanical knowledge (I can do basic maintenance and have done simple mechanical work like installing bolt-on parts like exhausts and such but I leave major stuff to experts) so please forgive me if I seem clueless on certain things. Thanks in advance for any help.

The front diff/steering rack leak area could be a lot of things. Could be someone spilled the contents of the oil filter all over the front diff as others have said. The other possibility is the o-rings on the oil cooler are leaking. There's two o-rings, one on the oil cooler itself to the oil filter housing, another in the eye bolt that bolts the cooler to the oil filter housing. If you don't want a huge project disassembling the whole intake side of the engine you can reach from below behind the front diff using extensions and wobble joints to get the socket in the right place to undo it. Then you get to fight the hose clamps that feed coolant into that heat exchanger. Another possibility is a valve cover leak but that should be obvious from the top of the engine if you look carefully. Another possibility is that the front diff itself is leaking oil from somewhere like the front cover or axle seal. In my case it was all three and I didn't know until I fixed one problem only to discover despite cleaning off the front diff and everything else I was still getting oil at the bottom of my front diff.

I have started doing all my own work for these cars because I've realized that they aren't that complicated by modern standards (see: BMW N63, VR30DDTT, etc) and at the end of the day nobody is going to be as invested as you are in making sure the job is done correctly. Basically every time I have given the keys to a mechanic to let them do anything they have damaged something, usually discontinued and a huge pain to fix. Mechanics in my area are often used to being able to say that it could've been any previous mechanic that caused a problem but I am doing all my own work so often that I can pin down exactly who did something and it has turned into a huge fight every time I confront one about something I'm almost certain they did.

  • Like 1

Thanks for the helpful replies guys! I'll get back with the shop and see how it plays out. It would make sense that the oil at the front is from spilled oil - the car did have an oil change fairly recently and the filter is in the stock location. I'll bring up the suggestion on the hose for the transfer case and see how that works as well. Really appreciate the help and quick responses.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...