Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I went to inspect a car and it had finance, now it shows finance from a few years ago and the owner said that it has no finance and he never received an letter or anything. But it shows the registration of the person who had the security interest which isn't the same as the seller's (and that rego doesn't seem to be active anymore), who now has the finance the old owner or the new one? I know usually it follows the owner but it looked odd to me, and shows the finance ends in a few years. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484625-question-about-finance/
Share on other sites

Well that depends on whether the encumbrance is still current or if it's just a zombie. You need to contact the holder of the encumbrance to find out if they actually do still hold it.

These registers are not always going to be 100% accurate. They serve to prevent as many surprises as possible. Here you have a potential surprise. Investigate.

6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Well that depends on whether the encumbrance is still current or if it's just a zombie. You need to contact the holder of the encumbrance to find out if they actually do still hold it.

These registers are not always going to be 100% accurate. They serve to prevent as many surprises as possible. Here you have a potential surprise. Investigate.

It's showing this:

Untitled.png

 

I'll give a call to the company next week and if there's no finance get it all in writing. 

Edited by silviaz

I have had the ppsr not clear.

Bought a motorbike off a dude, didn't do the check cos trusted him.

I sell motorbike and guy foes check and itnhas finance!

Go visit guy I bought it off as i remembered where he lived , he was as surprised as me *and surprised to see me* and happy to help ( for perhaps obvious reasons, it was in his interest afterall)

Apparently the bank never updated the register. All fixed and no dramas.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...