Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

35 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Well...... no. They usually run just fine on 98 without a need for a tune. When there was no 98, and 95 was the only option, that's when there was a problem.

The Aussie delivered ones do, the imports don’t. There was a time when everyone used to throw an exhaust on them pull the restrictor out and then the engine let go in 6 month, s13s were prone to it as well 

4 hours ago, r32-25t said:

All performance cars in Japan are tuned to use it and the reason why once the cars are imported to Australia the engines blow up

I quote again. You said "all performance cars in Japan" and imputed that the all blow up once they are in Oz. It's just not true. I removed fuel and added timing to both RB20DET and 25DETNeo base maps, running on 98, and neither engine blew up. The Neo is 10 years deep into that.

33 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

2 cars out of all the cars that were brought in don’t have the issue? Still seen plenty of 25s crush bearings without many modifications 

You guys sure you aren’t just agreeing on basically the same thing? Stock tune, stock engine within reason the Nissan tunes seem pretty safe. The RB26 out here runs ok on 91 AKI which is 95-96 RON. It’s when you run a Mines tune or whatever made for 100 RON super premium that you start seeing engines blow up.

Personally I’m probably going to run wastegate boost and roughly stock timing forever on 91 AKI E10. It’s just terrible fuel and RBs are expensive to rebuild. I might play a bit with boost enrichment thresholds but that’s it. Any additional timing and boost I’d probably want at least E30.

On 18/06/2023 at 3:06 PM, GTSBoy said:

Well...... no. They usually run just fine on 98 without a need for a tune. When there was no 98, and 95 was the only option and guys ran double standard boost that's when there was a problem.

Fyp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...