Mobil 1 v Motul engine oils.

[Busky2k]

One of the very few oil flush additives that I recommend is Wynns which is detergent based (like in the oil already). Stuff like Nulon and other cheap and nasties are just kerosene or other harsh solvents in a bottle which just makes the oil very thin. Also these formulations can be very aggressive on seals and can cause your engine to spring leaks (like Nulon did on my last car).

[PHATR32]

wynns? cool, id like to give the engine and radiator a complete flush before i put some good oil in it.

steve

[leech_]

does anyone know of any places in canberra that sell motul oil ??? i have looked everywheer and wouldnt mind giving it a try.

[poyz]

leech - Autobarn in Fyshwick or Autobarn in Belconnen stock Motul.

[Roy]

As i couldnt find the right grade of Mobil 1 to use, im trying the Castrol Formula R 10W-60. So far i have to say very happy as even the knock level seems to be 10-15 lower?!?!?! Will see how the car goes at the next track day...im sure it will be fine, but my understanding is Mobil 1 is typically regarded as having the best stability at high temps

[JimX]

I've said it before but I'll say it again just in case people haven't read it yet. I used Castrol Formula R for the first 4 or 5 oil changes (every 5000km). Then I swapped to Motul 8100, and suddenly the exhaust ran absolutely FILTHY. Then after about 1000km, a lifter got blocked. The Motul had done such a good job of cleaning the engine that it dislodged the large chunks of crap that had accumulated in the engine when using Formula R and whatever the previous owner had used before it.

So while I'm not going to actually say that Castrol added gunk into my engine causing a lifter to block, I *will* say that at the very minimum, it did absolutely nothing to help clean out the inside of the engine from whatever unknown oils were used previously. If you really want to use Castrol, I would recommend doing an engine flush between services to gradually reduce gunk buildup. The Castrol is doing jack-all in this regard for you even though as a supposed synthetic, it should be keeping it clean.

Since then I used Motul 8100 in my last 2 changes and the exhaust is now running much cleaner due to the insides of the engine now being much cleaner. And no hint of any blocked lifters.

[leech_]

thanks for that poiz appreciate it

[Roy]

I thought of using the 300V COMPETITION 15W50.

But which 8100 are you running 0W30 , 0W40 , 5W30 , 5W40? None of those grades suit my thinking for an oil that i will use in my turbo car at the track

This is the link to the oil i have always used, but cant find anywhere in Melb that sells it.http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...bil1_15W-50.asp

[Roy]

This is the Castrol oil...http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...etic_10W_60.pdf

[lwells]

Up, up, and..... a question

My R32 GT-R is about to land after about five months storage, so its going to need the usual complete fluid flush. I am thinking Motul for the engine, Redline for the g/box, and probably one or other for the diffs.

Now for the question: which Motul should I go for? 8100 or 4100 seems to be the most popular choice, although some of you have suggested 300V. Unfortunately the Motul website is not very helpful (for me, at least) in making the differences obvious. Could someone spell it out for me?

Also, is there a Motul oil which has less aggressive cleaning agents than 8100? After JimX's experience, I am tempted to go with something with less cleaning agents for the first change, and then swap to something more aggressive later to make sure nothing gets clogged. Thoughts?

Cheers guys

[Duncan]

You could have a chat to Nathan, see what he thinks. But as for flushing, there are some "engine flush" products around that you can run through, either that or run the 8100 and drop it after 500-1000klm to give it a chance to cleap things up. My gtr hadn't been looked after too well in jp and the oil that came out was pretty bad terribble actually

[lwells]

Duncan: I intend to do the fluid replacement myself, but I might have a chat to Nathan anyway.

I would still appreciate any thoughts other have though

[kingscorp]

Do Motul sponsor the club or something?

[Roy]

Can someone clarify the grade of 8100 they are using?

[Guest RedLineGTR]

The only grades of 8100 I have seen around my area have been the 5-40W rating that’s what I have been using for the past 14 months, it’s the closest thing I have found to a good synthetic oil unless yo go for the 300V series of Motul oils which are a 100% “genuine” synthetics made from esters.

Some things I have noticed when using Motul oils for the past 14 months, might be useful for some people…meh

When using Shell Helix Ultra 5-40w, Branded as a 100% synthetic oil and after using this for a while I noticed quiet a bit of black fouling on the exhaust tip (new cat back) of the cannon muffler (it just got black very quickly after a couple of good fangs).

After switching to Motul 8100 5-40w and giving my exhaust I polish the whole cannon on the outside and the 5inch tip (inside) on the 3.5inch cat back exhaust (got a bit carried away when cleaning) after 3 tank fulls of petrol the tip of the exhaust hasn’t even gotten dirty, looks like new and even recently getting a new exhaust it looks like new still after 4 weeks of use and fanging. The status of tuned had not be changed eg. Richer or leaner etc.

[Roy]

But what does the amount of carbon buildup etc tell you?

[lwells]

Can someone clarify the grade of 8100 they are using?

I'd like to know too. Also, where are people purchasing the stuff? Much variance in pricing between retailers (ie. is it worth the ring around, or just rock up to local oil supplier)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

[someonestolecc]

I'm using 5/40 8100. $60 at UAS $65 most other places.

JustJap have it for $65 with a filter (although I'd rather buy a seperate filter).

Also since using 8100 my exhaust has been punching out a helluva lotta black stuff - I'm assuming it's just crap in the exhaust rather than from the engine but yeah I've done about 300km on it so I'll be changing it again and getting a new cat (the old one is tiny).

Again - I don't think it's the oil related but yeah, where I warm up my car there is a bike and the exhaust is about 10cm away from it and I noticed the other day it's been splattered hard with about 3-5mm of crap.. haha I think it's cos of some rain getting into the exhaust first then getting splattered out.. but it's pretty chunk.

[steane]

My experience with the GTR (no remote oil cooler)is as follows,

Castrol R 10W-60 - Has good oil pressure showing on the gauge but fuel economy and performance seem to suffer marginally. Just feels less happy to rev. Worst thing about it was that it consistantly had the engine oil temp up around 100 degrees on constant highway speeds and was quick to go higher if pushing the car.

Mobil 1 10w-30 - Lower indicated oil pressure when warm but still acceptable. Revs easier but the biggest difference is that the oil temp sits around 85 degrees on the highway and is much slower to rise when the car is pushed hard. I am very specific about using the 10w-30 and not the other Mobil 1 types.

Personally, I feel far more comfortable with a little less indicated oil pressure but cooler running and more stable oil temp.

I've used all sorts of oil in all sorts of cars and they have always come out black (even with new cars) so its never been a concern for me. Only car that I've ever seen drop clean looking oil after a service was a holden ute that ran on LPG.

I cant fault the Mobil 1 but having said that would be keen to give the Redline stuff a try at some stage and see if theres a difference.

[Ronin 09]

Time to drag this one up again...

I'm about to do a change, have been running Motul 300v 15-50 for a year or so and have been pretty happy with the performance.

Some vic guys swear by Castrol Formula R 10-60 (i think) and am considering the change - alot of vic guys run it at the track with good results (or lack of blow ups?!?) and i'm preparing for another track day in April

I however have one sump's worth of 300v left waiting to go in... so what do I do, run the 300v or swap to Castrol for the track then back to 300v for the road?

Cheers