Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys 

For people with a built rb25, how much did u pay for the machine shop side of things like balancing and prepping crank, testing and resurfacing the block, cylinders bored out piston and bearing clearence measured etc. I’m assembling the engine myself and using my local machine shop but just wana make sure I’m not getting ripped off, Not parts cost just the actual service.

Cheers 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485282-rb25-machining-costs/
Share on other sites

image.thumb.png.e1ac0aefb2a519e901de29225987881e.png

image.thumb.png.6b3846884a1ad4edb5b093cb1d45669d.png

 

Occurred in 2021. f**kers raised the price substantially over the quote on the phone, and tried to force in extra work I explicitly didn't want. YMMV. But theres a reference for ya.

 

Didn't get it balanced and didn't need line boring.

Should have got it balanced (get it balanced).

Edited by CowsWithGuns
  • Like 2

I would look at getting the block checked for cracks and stuff before any machine work

It seems there's a tendency for the block to show some cracks around where the head studs go

There's a few threads about the cracks on this site

  • Like 1

I wonder how many people have had their block crack tested, found tiny cracks between the head stud holes and water galleries that are only visible with crack testing, then went on to use the block anyway. 

The engine I'm slowly building, the block came back from crack testing with a couple of those cracks identified... the machinist told me those cracks were very common and not to worry about it. And if it was his block, he'd still use it. 

I'd feel a lot better about it if a bunch of people here have used similarly cracked blocks without issues (say up to 450kw ish without issue). 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...