Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

50 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Have driven 2x S15s with the Nismo Pro (adjustable initial torque, both on low) and 1x S15 with an older style Nismo diff without option to adjust (old Intima / trak-life S15) and there's a big difference. The latter would behave like my KAAZ diff.

So reading this, I doubled checked the receipt for my diff.....

@Kinkstaah sorry mate for all the confusion above. I have a Nismo GT Pro 2 way diff. I must have early onset dementia, I forgot it was the pro version =/ 

Sorry for the confusion everyone :(

  • Like 1

Yeah, I mean the only photo I have seen is my own one, and looking at the ramp angles it FEELS like it's even front and back. The Nismo Pro being an adjustable uneven-ramp-1.5-way diff that-is-adjustable-ontop-of-that seems to account for everyone's experiences here.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
On 12/03/2024 at 11:04 AM, GTSBoy said:

The VLSDs have one long and one short axle inside. The helicals are either exact same length or ever so slightly different (so technically one long and one short, but only just).

Thats really interessting, are you 100% sure? Ive got a customer car there with same length axles. I cant imagine that I have one of that rare helical R34 GTT diffs here.
The diff what is mounted (i believe its an aftermarket inside) locks so much that the tires rubbs on slightly corners, almost like welded. Its really uncomfortable to drive on the road with it. So I want to mount a Kaaz 1.5 SQ, but I dont want to order twice. If you are 100% sure that Helicals have the same length, I would order that version 😃

 

spacer.png

If that is not an optical illusion then they do not look like the same length. The closer one has longer splines.

But here's the rub. You say it has an aftermarket mechanical diff in it? Well, when you buy a Nismo LSD you get 2x new stub axles to go with it, because the Nismo mechs are not intended to work with the original unequal length VLSD stubs.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...