Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know anything about a r34 350z lsd diff conversion?.  I have 350z lsd conversion layin around and thought about chucking it in my r34 I got all the offset adapters but am having trouble figuring out on how to get a speedo reading. Any help would be appreciated thanks

 

(I have both speedo sensors from r34 and 350z)

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485572-r34-350z-lsd-conversion-speedo/
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

R34 vehicle speed sensor is in the gearbag.

hey man nah I’m sure they get it from the diff like the s15 my speedo went out in the past and I just replaced the sensor in the diff and everything was working again

(idk if this helps but I got a HR34 sedan)

OK, that explains it. The auto NAs are not something that even enter my thinking 99.9% of the time.

If you put a small turbo box into it then you could use an appropriate speedo sender in that and connect to the dash. The caveat there is that I have no idea if the calibration of the dash would be even close to correct. It might not even work. I do not know how the diff mounted speed sender works, and there is every possibility that it is different to the signal generated from the gearbox mounted sensors.

I would suggest hooking an oscilloscope up to your speed signal from sender to dash and recording the waveform at some known speeds.

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

OK, that explains it. The auto NAs are not something that even enter my thinking 99.9% of the time.

If you put a small turbo box into it then you could use an appropriate speedo sender in that and connect to the dash. The caveat there is that I have no idea if the calibration of the dash would be even close to correct. It might not even work. I do not know how the diff mounted speed sender works, and there is every possibility that it is different to the signal generated from the gearbox mounted sensors.

I would suggest hooking an oscilloscope up to your speed signal from sender to dash and recording the waveform at some known speeds.

 

 

yea that might be an issue the sensor in the diff is for both abs and speedo same with the 350z diff except the 350z diff has 4pin connected while the r34 one is 2 pin. 

One thing you may be able to leverage is the fact that the R34 N/A has the same setup as a S15.

The S15 also is a car that gets 350Z diff swapped, so they will also likely have this problem.

The caveat of course is it's possible the dash is different between the R34 NA and the S15, but the subframe/sensors/axles/diff setup are the same.

I can't remember now as it's been too long, but I don't generally think people need to swap dashes between the N/A dash and the turbo dash when they do things like change the gearbox out, turbo their car, manual swap it, it's just not something I've seen mentioned so this could be compatible.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Having seen a 350z diff swap I wouldn't do it, they don't really fit because the diff mounting ears are higher up the case and the diff sits very low in the sub frame.

I looked at it but am getting 3.5 gears from Neat instead.

Edited by Komdotkom
Just now, Komdotkom said:

Having seen a 350z diff swap I wouldn't do it, they don't really fit because the diff mounting ears are higher up the case and the diff sits very low in the sub frame.

I looked at it but am getting 3.5 gears from Neat instead.

Put it in about 2weekz ago I haven’t heard anyone do it before but all the parts just fit right in the diff sits quite low and the diff ratio is pretty f**ked I thought I bought a 3.6 but I ended up with a 3.3 I believe😭

looking into finding something closer to the original ratio to the r34 diff (4.1) 

also having trouble trying to get somewhere to get a speed reading as the r34 sedan gets the speedo reading and abs from the diff 

  • 2 weeks later...

update i did some test and think the diff has a 3.3 ratio i also took it out and readjusted the offset bushing on the subframe which made the diff sit higher about the same as the stock r200 r34 diff.  (P.S : you'll need an 18mm spacer fabricated from your driveshaft to diff flange as there is a gap i think it might be unnecessary for some skylines  

I have a HR34 which is also a 4speed automatic which is now slower with the smaller ratio as the OG ratio is 3.9. ill see whether or not ill change the ratio after i do my manual swap. I am putting in a RB20det gearbox in it honestly hoping the gearing will be better if not ill probably steal a crown and pinion from a g37 or some with the 3.9 ratio

On 14/06/2024 at 1:55 AM, GTSBoy said:

OK, that explains it. The auto NAs are not something that even enter my thinking 99.9% of the time.

If you put a small turbo box into it then you could use an appropriate speedo sender in that and connect to the dash. The caveat there is that I have no idea if the calibration of the dash would be even close to correct. It might not even work. I do not know how the diff mounted speed sender works, and there is every possibility that it is different to the signal generated from the gearbox mounted sensors.

I would suggest hooking an oscilloscope up to your speed signal from sender to dash and recording the waveform at some known speeds.

After some inspection it seems that the diff has a metal gear near the diff flange with the sensor slotting in a hole that hovers above it. I believe it is some sorta Hall effect sensor which reads the amount of rotations of the pinion to calculate the cars speed. 

the 350z also uses this mechanism on the diff except it has it on either one of the diff flangers and 2 seperate speed sensors. I soldered the wires and i still have no reading. 

might just go with the gps speedo at this stage haha

7 hours ago, Daquavuis said:

the 350z also uses this mechanism on the diff except it has it on either one of the diff flangers and 2 seperate speed sensors. I soldered the wires and i still have no reading. 

Yes, well, that wouldn't work even if the sensor was compatible, as the pulse rate would be all wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...