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Hello,

I am in the middle of installing the attesa ets pro in my r33 gtr non vspec and am confused with how the safety solenoid should be wired up. 12V switched to one side? And then ground or 2V to the other?

Has anyone installed the ets pro to an attesa system with the safety solenoid? I can not find any information on how the safety solenoid should be wired up. 
cheers

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image.thumb.jpeg.4effc65136de91106323cd9eb113bbae.jpeg
This is the section I am confused about. 12V to one side of the safety solenoid, but what to the other side?

All the other wiring I have no issues with. 
 

Instructions can be found https://www.full-race.com/ets-pro-nissan-skyline-gt-r-center-differential-attesa-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34

And

https://www.full-race.com/resources/installation-instructions/ets-pro-universal-install-guide

29 minutes ago, Russell2208 said:

This is the section I am confused about. 12V to one side of the safety solenoid, but what to the other side?

Well....ground, obviously. A 12V solenoid only works when it has 12V on one terminal and the other side of the circuit (ie, ground) on the other terminal.

They're just telling you to hotwire it.

Of course, you should not do that without a fuse in the 12V supply. Protect the wire from the solenoid going short.

I don’t think it is ground. From factory it has 12v switched to one side of the ETS solenoid and the failsafe solenoid. Then the factory ets ecu has a pinout to send voltage to the otherside of the solenoids. I can see the ETS solenoid ranges from 0-3.3V to control the pressure to the transfer case. 
Im just not sure what voltage goes to the failsafe. 
 

I’m wanting to hardware these solenoids to avoid using the factory computer.

I’ll link the factory R33 wiring here. 
image.thumb.jpeg.5ec029df715bc6bcad1a47f04ad3468a.jpeg

4 hours ago, Russell2208 said:

I don’t think it is ground.

Well, it has to be.

4 hours ago, Russell2208 said:

From factory it has 12v switched to one side of the ETS solenoid and the failsafe solenoid. Then the factory ets ecu has a pinout to send voltage to the otherside of the solenoids.

Yes, and, they are saying

"This failsafe must be disabled" (My emphasis).

And they are saying exactly how to do that....

"Giving the failsafe a switched +12V constant signal will keep the solenoid closed/disabled".

I interpret that to mean that "any time the car is running, you want 12V permanently on the solenoid". Ie, power it to close it when the car is running. Have the power switched off when the car is not running.

Edited by GTSBoy

Thanks for trying to help me mate. I tried it tonight with the failsafe solenoid with 12V IGN on one side and ground on the other side. No 4wd. Just spinning the rear. Even when setting the controller to manual mode and full locked 4wd.

I might try keep all the factory wiring in place and just have the FullRace system control the ETS solenoid. However, I would much prefer to hardwire all the system so that I can ditch the Attesa ECU.

I can’t tell if the failsafe solenoid is opening or closing when powering it. 
 

I put the factory system back in for a sanity check that the system still works. It does, factory 4wd works. 
 

Was going to try wiring the new system to the ETS solenoid and leaving all the factory relays ecu in place. But realised the stock attesa computer shuts off all the relays when the ETS solenoid is disconnected. I could try get a resistor to be a dummy load over the factory ets solenoid. 
If only there was a spec sheet for the solenoids so I could understand how they work.

Solenoid valves are just a coil of wire wrapped around a movable iron core. Put the required volts onto it and the wire creates a magnetic field that makes the iron core move. The moving iron core forces the valve to either open or close (depending on whether it is a normally open or normally closed valve). NO valves are closed by powering them. NC valves are opened by powering them.

The failsafe valve is NO and is closed when powered.

You should feel it click when it changes state from on to off or vice versa.

I have confirmed the failsafe solenoid clicks with 12V on one side and ground on the other. Still no 4wd though. 

Now I guess the only part left is the ETS solenoid. I don’t hear this click when in manual mode and adjusting the dial. I’m going to reach out to the manufacturer and ask what the correct outputs should be from the black and white solenoid wires. 
Perhaps there is a fault with the unit.

Or if anyone has a unit and they could tell me what voltages come from the black and white wires when not connected to anything. That would be appreciated 

Yes the ETS controller light is on, in auto mode it is a bit dim, in manual mode it adjusts brightness with the dial. The wiring for the controller is 12V ign to the red wire, ground to green wire, tps to blue wire, solenoid wires to black and white and the handbrake wire, brown, I have not connected to anything (you would ground this for rwd). Please correct me if I have that wrong. 
 

The pump I have connected to a relay like such. I hear the pump power on and stop when at pressure. I don’t think I have this incorrect?image.thumb.png.14abaa68517d83e51d1ecd120ab7579b.png

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/17/2025 at 11:18 PM, PotatoCake said:

What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?

I love it aye. The ability to switch to RWD on the fly can be handy for certain situations....
I can adjust the dial to reduce oversteer out of the corners. I've noticed I can be on the power earlier out of corners and it feels like its on rails compared to the factory system. The factory system would be a bit slow out of the corners and give oversteer. And if you don't like that it is super easy to adjust the front wheel bias. 
I would definitely recommend the unit for someone who is looking to have a tunable 4WD, It can be set much more aggressive than factory. And being able to turn off 4WD with a switch has some benefits.

  • Like 2

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