Jump to content
SAU Community

Attesa ETS Pro Install on R33 GTR

Russell2208
 Share

Recommended Posts

Russell2208 Rookie

Russell2208

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I am in the middle of installing the attesa ets pro in my r33 gtr non vspec and am confused with how the safety solenoid should be wired up. 12V switched to one side? And then ground or 2V to the other?

Has anyone installed the ets pro to an attesa system with the safety solenoid? I can not find any information on how the safety solenoid should be wired up. 
cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485701-attesa-ets-pro-install-on-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites
Russell2208 Rookie

Russell2208

Posted
  • Author
Posted

image.thumb.jpeg.4effc65136de91106323cd9eb113bbae.jpeg
This is the section I am confused about. 12V to one side of the safety solenoid, but what to the other side?

All the other wiring I have no issues with. 
 

Instructions can be found https://www.full-race.com/ets-pro-nissan-skyline-gt-r-center-differential-attesa-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34

And

https://www.full-race.com/resources/installation-instructions/ets-pro-universal-install-guide

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, Russell2208 said:

This is the section I am confused about. 12V to one side of the safety solenoid, but what to the other side?

Well....ground, obviously. A 12V solenoid only works when it has 12V on one terminal and the other side of the circuit (ie, ground) on the other terminal.

They're just telling you to hotwire it.

Of course, you should not do that without a fuse in the 12V supply. Protect the wire from the solenoid going short.

Russell2208 Rookie

Russell2208

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don’t think it is ground. From factory it has 12v switched to one side of the ETS solenoid and the failsafe solenoid. Then the factory ets ecu has a pinout to send voltage to the otherside of the solenoids. I can see the ETS solenoid ranges from 0-3.3V to control the pressure to the transfer case. 
Im just not sure what voltage goes to the failsafe. 
 

I’m wanting to hardware these solenoids to avoid using the factory computer.

I’ll link the factory R33 wiring here. 
image.thumb.jpeg.5ec029df715bc6bcad1a47f04ad3468a.jpeg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Russell2208 said:

I don’t think it is ground.

Well, it has to be.

4 hours ago, Russell2208 said:

From factory it has 12v switched to one side of the ETS solenoid and the failsafe solenoid. Then the factory ets ecu has a pinout to send voltage to the otherside of the solenoids.

Yes, and, they are saying

"This failsafe must be disabled" (My emphasis).

And they are saying exactly how to do that....

"Giving the failsafe a switched +12V constant signal will keep the solenoid closed/disabled".

I interpret that to mean that "any time the car is running, you want 12V permanently on the solenoid". Ie, power it to close it when the car is running. Have the power switched off when the car is not running.

Edited by GTSBoy
Russell2208 Rookie

Russell2208

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for trying to help me mate. I tried it tonight with the failsafe solenoid with 12V IGN on one side and ground on the other side. No 4wd. Just spinning the rear. Even when setting the controller to manual mode and full locked 4wd.

I might try keep all the factory wiring in place and just have the FullRace system control the ETS solenoid. However, I would much prefer to hardwire all the system so that I can ditch the Attesa ECU.

Russell2208 Rookie

Russell2208

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I can’t tell if the failsafe solenoid is opening or closing when powering it. 
 

I put the factory system back in for a sanity check that the system still works. It does, factory 4wd works. 
 

Was going to try wiring the new system to the ETS solenoid and leaving all the factory relays ecu in place. But realised the stock attesa computer shuts off all the relays when the ETS solenoid is disconnected. I could try get a resistor to be a dummy load over the factory ets solenoid. 
If only there was a spec sheet for the solenoids so I could understand how they work.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Solenoid valves are just a coil of wire wrapped around a movable iron core. Put the required volts onto it and the wire creates a magnetic field that makes the iron core move. The moving iron core forces the valve to either open or close (depending on whether it is a normally open or normally closed valve). NO valves are closed by powering them. NC valves are opened by powering them.

The failsafe valve is NO and is closed when powered.

You should feel it click when it changes state from on to off or vice versa.

Russell2208 Rookie

Russell2208

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have confirmed the failsafe solenoid clicks with 12V on one side and ground on the other. Still no 4wd though. 

Now I guess the only part left is the ETS solenoid. I don’t hear this click when in manual mode and adjusting the dial. I’m going to reach out to the manufacturer and ask what the correct outputs should be from the black and white solenoid wires. 
Perhaps there is a fault with the unit.

Or if anyone has a unit and they could tell me what voltages come from the black and white wires when not connected to anything. That would be appreciated 

Russell2208 Rookie

Russell2208

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes the ETS controller light is on, in auto mode it is a bit dim, in manual mode it adjusts brightness with the dial. The wiring for the controller is 12V ign to the red wire, ground to green wire, tps to blue wire, solenoid wires to black and white and the handbrake wire, brown, I have not connected to anything (you would ground this for rwd). Please correct me if I have that wrong. 
 

The pump I have connected to a relay like such. I hear the pump power on and stop when at pressure. I don’t think I have this incorrect?image.thumb.png.14abaa68517d83e51d1ecd120ab7579b.png

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Russell2208 Rookie

Russell2208

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 3/17/2025 at 11:18 PM, PotatoCake said:

What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?

I love it aye. The ability to switch to RWD on the fly can be handy for certain situations....
I can adjust the dial to reduce oversteer out of the corners. I've noticed I can be on the power earlier out of corners and it feels like its on rails compared to the factory system. The factory system would be a bit slow out of the corners and give oversteer. And if you don't like that it is super easy to adjust the front wheel bias. 
I would definitely recommend the unit for someone who is looking to have a tunable 4WD, It can be set much more aggressive than factory. And being able to turn off 4WD with a switch has some benefits.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • QB6SAGR
      Battle of the broken skylines

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline · Posted

      Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Rezz
      Spotted on the street....

      By Rezz · Posted

      Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...