Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’ve decided to swap out these old carrozzeria ts-a70w in the rear parcel shelf for some pioneers while I’m sound deadening, I’m looking at the wiring and none of it makes sense it’s all mixed up and a mess…. 
 

any ideas am I better off running new lines there is a lot going on in the boot with wires running everywhere and terminals everywhere.

IMG_4780.jpeg

IMG_4781.jpeg

IMG_4782.jpeg

IMG_4783.jpeg

IMG_4784.jpeg

Edited by 32pwwr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485797-any-sound-system-gurus/
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Looks like it's going to an amplifier somewhere.

Might as well rip out the lot and run a new amp, and head unit with Android Auto / crApple Car Play

There’s no amp looks like at one stage there was as there is a separate black plug laying back there.

 

considered Apple car play but the double din means i sacrifice my aircon or gauges haha 

Edited by 32pwwr

The original soundsystem had a small amp hanging under the parcel shelf. Thus, the original speaker wires in the rear only go as far as that amp. The input wires to that amp came from the front of the car and that may well be the loose plug.

There is absolutely no way that anyone who is not present standing at your car can help you understand that bunch of wires in your photos. It has clearly been modified away from what the original wiring was, and thus we can't know what we're looking at.

You just need to put in time and effort to identify where those wires come from. Once you understand that, you can then decide on what you want to do with them. If they are good sized speaker wires that possibly came with the previous speakers and the connectors on them will suit your new speakers and you're happy to run them from whatever amplifier (ie, even just the headunit) that they're currently already connected to....then you could just reuse them.

If they have been hacked and twisted together and so on, then abandon ship and start afresh.

  • Like 2
5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The original soundsystem had a small amp hanging under the parcel shelf. Thus, the original speaker wires in the rear only go as far as that amp. The input wires to that amp came from the front of the car and that may well be the loose plug.

There is absolutely no way that anyone who is not present standing at your car can help you understand that bunch of wires in your photos. It has clearly been modified away from what the original wiring was, and thus we can't know what we're looking at.

You just need to put in time and effort to identify where those wires come from. Once you understand that, you can then decide on what you want to do with them. If they are good sized speaker wires that possibly came with the previous speakers and the connectors on them will suit your new speakers and you're happy to run them from whatever amplifier (ie, even just the headunit) that they're currently already connected to....then you could just reuse them.

If they have been hacked and twisted together and so on, then abandon ship and start afresh.

I might start fresh, there’s just to much going on to understand and no auto elec will come look at it for 2 speakers for a reasonable price lol and I’ve already done the front speakers myself. 

9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The original soundsystem had a small amp hanging under the parcel shelf. Thus, the original speaker wires in the rear only go as far as that amp. The input wires to that amp came from the front of the car and that may well be the loose plug.

There is absolutely no way that anyone who is not present standing at your car can help you understand that bunch of wires in your photos. It has clearly been modified away from what the original wiring was, and thus we can't know what we're looking at.

You just need to put in time and effort to identify where those wires come from. Once you understand that, you can then decide on what you want to do with them. If they are good sized speaker wires that possibly came with the previous speakers and the connectors on them will suit your new speakers and you're happy to run them from whatever amplifier (ie, even just the headunit) that they're currently already connected to....then you could just reuse them.

If they have been hacked and twisted together and so on, then abandon ship and start afresh.

I ended up pulling the wires and found only the green and grey lead to the stereo, the yellow and black were connected to nothing and just pulled them out

IMG_4788.jpeg

On 04/09/2024 at 7:14 PM, 32pwwr said:

I ended up pulling the wires and found only the green and grey lead to the stereo, the yellow and black were connected to nothing and just pulled them out

IMG_4788.jpeg

Jesus...

Rip it all out, start again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When’s the tow ball on the 33 coming? 🙃
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...