Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tried some stainless allen head bolts I had laying around, they stuck out like dog balls, so I went to Bunnings and got some black coated jobbies, which I like alot more.....basically OEM....LOL

I'll RTV it up this week sometime ready for MX5 Mania to do their thing

20250610_175713.thumb.jpg.694579e37ae60638604603a8d3026426.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001728
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I saw a car just like this stopping at Harvest for coffee this morning

Yeap, was me and the daughter getting coffee before heading to the new joint to measure up the fridge space and taking some pics that the solar installer wanted of the switch board

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001732
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, The Bogan said:

Yeap, was me and the daughter getting coffee before heading to the new joint to measure up the fridge space and taking some pics that the solar installer wanted of the switch board

I am glad someone's project fun car is out doing stuff like this.

  • Haha 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001760
Share on other sites

50 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I am glad someone's project fun car is out doing stuff like this.

Give it time mate, you will eventually sort out the bugs, and then... you too can hunt around in the hills looking for coffee, pies and treats

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001761
Share on other sites

Nah, I definitely do that kind of stuff with my car. I do drive it around as a daily! It's just that mindset about building a car to actually still use/retain it's function as a car is rare.

If you modify your car into a weekender, IMO you've ruined 5/7ths of the fun. It should remain fun to do daily errands in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001762
Share on other sites

Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001763
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

House warming party is when?

When the power is on and the AC heat is warming the house...LOL

Jackie keeps me updated with the Goulburn temps, I think she is scared she will freeze, me, I'm fine with the cold, I'm use to acclimatising

Jackie is the main reason for getting solar, as she "requires" the AC to keep things civil year round, night and day, and me telling her to wrap up and layer in the cold falls on deaf ears, with an evil glance thrown in for good measure to ensure I "understand"...LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001850
Share on other sites

Got keys and did a walk around the yard planning the landscaping works with the family that I will be doing

Main effort: remove all the woodchip in the gardens that are around (attached) to the outside of the house and replace with 10mm blue metal, having woodchip close to the house is a recipe for inviting white ants, currently there are no white ants within the block and I would like to keep it that way

I'll be buying some large raised garden beds to grow veggies and stuff, and the woodchip will be mulched with everything else that gets dug up, pulled out, or cut down during works

Next will some minor drainage and landscaping maintenance up one side of the house, where the fuse box, AC, and solar stuff will go, about 12 mtrs long by 2 meters wide, I'll break up the soil, add gypsum and then I'll dig in a French drains about 300mm deep x 300mm wide and fill it with agg pipe and blue metal, then level out the whole area with a 50mm layer of blue metal, the soil, whilst currently pretty compacted, will break up well with the gypsum to aid in drainage, I'll then cover the area with a 50mm layer of more blue metal

In saying this, the drainage issue is minor, but that little hidden away area down the side is untidy and weedy, and as all of the main elec stuff is there I want it neat and tidy to appease my OCD

Again, the material excavated from the French drains with be added to the garden bed mulch, as will some rose bushes and some other crap looking garden plants, and a old apricot tree that is looking worse for wear

The apricot tree is currently in a little roundish garden bed that is in the middle of the back yard with few other crappy looking plants around it, that will all be removed, levelled, re-turfed, and is a perfect spot for a hills hoist

There is also a area about 3m x 2m between the rear fence and shed that will get some attention, it looks like some stuff was stored there and the grass is dead, that will also get broken up and mulched, and is a prime spot for a pumpkin patch

I've guestimated that I'll need: 3 tonnes of blue metal, 12 meters of agg pipe, 5kg of Gypsum, and a hills hoist, so a few bags of concrete as well to set it in place (the house currently has one of those pull out 4 line jobs, whilst it works, I want a retro old school hills hoist), I am also going to run some chickens, there's a great spot for a coop, so a chicken coop to suit 4 of those lovely egg laying bitches will also be on the job card

That should keep me busy for a while, and will finish off the back yard ready for a early spring planting of some veggies and berries 

Once the main effort is done I'll start out the front, there's a large rock garden that could use some TLC, but that is only minor works

Should be fully moved in within 2 weeks, the landscaping works will start then

Fun times, retirement is good

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001876
Share on other sites

That's a pretty big job card assuming you're not planning on any machinery. I hope your dirt/rock ratio is not like ours, hand digging up here is very hard work

I use the Mitre 10 in Sloane St or Gehl's Nursery where I can rather than Bunnings, but for bulk material everything (Goulburn Sand and Soil, Rocky Hill Sand and Soil) and is owned by Divalls (as is about 80% of town) so no point shopping around. Let me know if you need to borrow a ute or box trailer.

BTW we also went with 7mm blue metal around the house, mostly for fire but also termites. You really need compacted road base under it then no more than about 50mm of rocks because otherwise they shift too much under foot. We also put corten edging to stop it spreading outside its area over time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001887
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

That's a pretty big job card assuming you're not planning on any machinery. I hope your dirt/rock ratio is not like ours, hand digging up here is very hard work

I use the Mitre 10 in Sloane St or Gehl's Nursery where I can rather than Bunnings, but for bulk material everything (Goulburn Sand and Soil, Rocky Hill Sand and Soil) and is owned by Divalls (as is about 80% of town) so no point shopping around. Let me know if you need to borrow a ute or box trailer.

BTW we also went with 7mm blue metal around the house, mostly for fire but also termites. You really need compacted road base under it then no more than about 50mm of rocks because otherwise they shift too much under foot. We also put corten edging to stop it spreading outside its area over time.

Cheers for the tips, I'll go with 50 mm around the side, I'm used to digging with hand tools, my prior occupation had me going well with hand tools and there's nothing that a breaker bar and a pair of gloves to protect my delicate hands can't fix, hopefully... 

As my time now is free, if it takes a week to excavate that's not a issue

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8001889
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Just got the car back and gave it a good run back home

Power wise, whilst it only made a extra 5 killerwasps up top at 7200 rpm, it made more power everywhere from 2500 rpm and kept pulling much harder all the way, to the point of me relearning when to shift so I don't hit the 7200 limiter, with the old intake it seemed to take alot more time to rev out, and, throttle response is also much improved 

As I didn't want to remove the bumper every time I serviced the air filter (basically every aftermarket and fabricated CAI has the filter behind the bumper) it currently has a hektic exposed pod in the engine bay sucking in hot air, this will be rectified shortly after some some of my CAD (cardboard assisted design) for a alloy heat shield feed by the OEM intake tube behind the bumper, this will cop some wrinkle black paint, as well as the intake pipe for that totally OEM look...

The only fly in the ointment was that the OEM "strut" brace doesn't fit over the rear runner of the new intake with the 2.5 engine is in the engine bay, as the 2.5 raises the engine up by 20mm, it's not a war stopper, and I didn't notice any difference without it in some twisties, but....... MX5 Mania is bringing in some GWR "fancy pants" braces that apparently do fit, if it bolts up I'll grab it, it is also stiffer than the OEM one, which is a bonus

All in all I'm happy with the outcome 

20250708_145527.thumb.jpg.e9f078e5c47dad3f024165b9a1c1e4b0.jpg

 

 

Fancy pants "strut" brace that gives the required clearance 

 

61-3493.thumb.webp.95a685a777227bdf0780ab5fd7a8e287.webp

 

This is where the clearance issue was, the GWR extends out past this

b1bcfd7cd566dad87a1689bdafb4d5dc148c885e_2_1332x1000(1).thumb.jpeg.bb146a2a8ebe26ab6e92e24e74ede545.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/12/#findComment-8002558
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...