Wiring high beams in IC7 for R32 GTR

[BourneToLive]

Hey, guys, I’m hoping I can find answer here. I have already done some searching and asking around but still nothing. 
 

I fitted an IC7 dash in my R32 GTR, and I got everything displaying on the dash except my high beams. I get input voltage and the high beams displaying in the dash when I pull the lever, but not when I fully engage the high beams. I spliced into the Red/Blue Beam+ wire in the black center connector from the cluster, but there is also a black Beam wire I think I need to use as well. The high beams still work. It’s just a matter of getting it to display on the dash. 
 

Has anyone fully wired in their IC7 properly ? I would appreciate any guidance on this. 
 

 

 

Edited January 6 by BourneToLive

[GTSBoy]

I suspect you probably need to connect to both, possibly with diodes in each side to prevent backfeeding.

You really should be able to see how they did it originally in the wiring diagram.

[Murray_Calavera]

2 hours ago, BourneToLive said:

Has anyone fully wired in their IC7 properly ?

Yep, mine works perfectly. 

Did you work off the wiring diagram here? 

https://www.haltech.com/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=ht_get_file&id=633e67ff2f02d268520a8812&op=1

[Duncan]

I haven't done this as I still use the factory cluster, but I do know the circuits for the flash vs on for hi beam are separate which is likely the issue. The ON runs full power through the switch and the flash uses the relay in the engine bay.

I'd hit the wiring diagram per GTSBoy's suggestion

[GTSBoy]

Hmmm.... It's actually a bit weird. Here's the key bit of the diagram. I've circled what I'm pretty sure is the high beam indicator on the cluster. It appears to be just in parallel with one of the high beam lamp globes. Meaning, that however the high beams get lit, the indicator should also be lit. So there shouldn't be any difference between being on normal headlight main beam, or just flashing. I've followed the physical diagram (which is not so easily summarised in a single snip, so I didn't put it up here) and it agrees with what you can see here.

If you struggle to follow this crap....let me explain some of it. I always struggle when I first look at this - even though I have looked specifically at this more than once in the past.

We'll start with the flash. The flash is triggered by pulling the dip switch back, right? That is indicated on the diagram by the P position on the switch block labelled "Light SW", on the RHS of the snip. The bottom-right most terminal is connected to ground. That's that wire line going down to the bottom. The next terminal up is connected to the bottom terminal when the switch is pulled back. That provides ground to wire LA33, which is connected to the coil of the relay in the middle of the snip, "Headlamp relay (2M)". That relay always has power on the other side of the coil, from fuse #19 above it. When that relay is triggered, the two main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 above feed through the relay down onto wires LA31 and LA32, which are connected into the wires that go to the main beams, LA04 and LA06. The cluster indicator is connected to LA32 also.

When the main beams are on normally, the light switch ("Light SW" again) is in the M position. Power comes in for the left and right sides on LA34 and LA36, via the other light switch (the one on the binnacle, called "Light SW (Instrument)" on the diagram). Obviously that switch needs to be in the 2nd position, because that's headlights. 1st position is parkers. The same main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 feed through that switch, out via LA34&36 to the stalk switch, and of out of the stalk switch via LA04 and LA06 to the headlamps. From there, it is no different to the flasher version.

I really don't know why they bothered with the flash relay. They probably didn't want to add another contact in the stalk switch - but I'm damn sure that's what I would have done. Just reverse the order of power feed, so that it goes from the fuses to the stalk switch first, and add another contact for flashing. Everything would have worked just the same, but less complicated. /bitchrant

[BourneToLive]

12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Hmmm.... It's actually a bit weird. Here's the key bit of the diagram. I've circled what I'm pretty sure is the high beam indicator on the cluster. It appears to be just in parallel with one of the high beam lamp globes. Meaning, that however the high beams get lit, the indicator should also be lit. So there shouldn't be any difference between being on normal headlight main beam, or just flashing. I've followed the physical diagram (which is not so easily summarised in a single snip, so I didn't put it up here) and it agrees with what you can see here.

If you struggle to follow this crap....let me explain some of it. I always struggle when I first look at this - even though I have looked specifically at this more than once in the past.

We'll start with the flash. The flash is triggered by pulling the dip switch back, right? That is indicated on the diagram by the P position on the switch block labelled "Light SW", on the RHS of the snip. The bottom-right most terminal is connected to ground. That's that wire line going down to the bottom. The next terminal up is connected to the bottom terminal when the switch is pulled back. That provides ground to wire LA33, which is connected to the coil of the relay in the middle of the snip, "Headlamp relay (2M)". That relay always has power on the other side of the coil, from fuse #19 above it. When that relay is triggered, the two main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 above feed through the relay down onto wires LA31 and LA32, which are connected into the wires that go to the main beams, LA04 and LA06. The cluster indicator is connected to LA32 also.

When the main beams are on normally, the light switch ("Light SW" again) is in the M position. Power comes in for the left and right sides on LA34 and LA36, via the other light switch (the one on the binnacle, called "Light SW (Instrument)" on the diagram). Obviously that switch needs to be in the 2nd position, because that's headlights. 1st position is parkers. The same main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 feed through that switch, out via LA34&36 to the stalk switch, and of out of the stalk switch via LA04 and LA06 to the headlamps. From there, it is no different to the flasher version.

I really don't know why they bothered with the flash relay. They probably didn't want to add another contact in the stalk switch - but I'm damn sure that's what I would have done. Just reverse the order of power feed, so that it goes from the fuses to the stalk switch first, and add another contact for flashing. Everything would have worked just the same, but less complicated. /bitchrant

Wow. I appreciate the thorough explanation of the diagram. I saw that same one when I was trying to figure it out on my own. Given all that information, how should I go about it? I was thinking about just grounding the other wire to the chassis to close the circuit. 

[Murray_Calavera]

What am I missing here? 

When you flash high beams, the factory dash globe lights up. When you set high beams on, the factory dash globe lights up. 

For the Haltech dash, all we are doing is picking up the factory dash globe lighting circuit, the same way it was done for the blinkers etc. 

When I wired up my dash it was all the same process for each dash light. I don't understand why this is becoming so complicated? 

[BourneToLive]

27 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

What am I missing here? 

When you flash high beams, the factory dash globe lights up. When you set high beams on, the factory dash globe lights up. 

For the Haltech dash, all we are doing is picking up the factory dash globe lighting circuit, the same way it was done for the blinkers etc. 

When I wired up my dash it was all the same process for each dash light. I don't understand why this is becoming so complicated? 

I know what you mean. I don’t why my situation is so different. My parkers also have a ILL+ and that’s the one I used, and it works just fine. In the video I posted, you can kind of make out the dash in the background. Towards the end of the video, the high beams are displayed on the dash when I pull the lever, but not when I push it to engage it. It’s really weird. I used a test light to verify and it was fine. Just not in the IC7. 

Edited January 7 by BourneToLive

[Duncan]

OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)

It's not a dumb question. I was circling this idea myself. User error is always possible!

[BourneToLive]

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)

Yes the high beams work perfectly fine. That’s why I’m so puzzled by this. I will try to make a video testing the wires later today or tomorrow. 

[Murray_Calavera]

12 hours ago, BourneToLive said:

high beams are displayed on the dash when I pull the lever, but not when I push it to engage it

Yeah ok, so this was an issue prior to installing the Haltech dash. 

If you want it sorted, time to start chasing the factory wiring to see where the circuit is open. But if it didn't bother you that it wasn't working on the stock dash, I suppose it doesn't matter if the Haltech dash also doesn't work?

[BourneToLive]

3 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Yeah ok, so this was an issue prior to installing the Haltech dash. 

If you want it sorted, time to start chasing the factory wiring to see where the circuit is open. But if it didn't bother you that it wasn't working on the stock dash, I suppose it doesn't matter if the Haltech dash also doesn't work?

It did work on the stock dash. Having it working on the IC7 is what I’m chasing. It doesn’t matter to me much, but there’s no information on how to do it out there and people who have done it are gatekeeping the information . it will most likely come up again in the future. 

[Murray_Calavera]

4 minutes ago, BourneToLive said:

It did work on the stock dash.

I thought you said the stock dash high beams light doesn't light up when you push the stalk forwards and lock the high beams on?

[Murray_Calavera]

If it is the case that your stock dash high beam light lights up as it should, all you have to do is tap into the power wire for the high beams dash globe and feed it to pin 25 on the Haltech dash. 

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, BourneToLive said:

there’s no information on how to do it out there and people who have done it are gatekeeping the information

That is not true. The R32 GTR wiring diagram is freely available and has been for literally 25 years. And you don't even actually need it because the situation is so simple that you literally only have to use the wire that runs to the original dash indicator.

Your car has a problem. That problem is unique to your car. I assure you that if I went out and did it to my car right now, it would work.

[BourneToLive]

On 1/8/2025 at 11:42 AM, GTSBoy said:

That is not true. The R32 GTR wiring diagram is freely available and has been for literally 25 years. And you don't even actually need it because the situation is so simple that you literally only have to use the wire that runs to the original dash indicator.

Your car has a problem. That problem is unique to your car. I assure you that if I went out and did it to my car right now, it would work.

Made a bit of a discovery, but while I was cruising, I randomly decided to test to see if it worked and it showed up on my IC7. The entire time I tested it before, I never thought to turn the ignition on. I only tested it with head lights turned on but with the ignition off. Huge oversight on my end. I’m a dummy. I know. 

[GTSBoy]

ROFL

[Murray_Calavera]

On 1/8/2025 at 7:00 AM, GTSBoy said:

User error is always possible!

Indeed! 

[BourneToLive]

Correction. Ignition was on before, but I guess the car had to be running for it to work.