Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, not sure how active SAU is anymore but will ask away anyways.

Just wanted to get some experience on the 2008 model GTR CBA model.  I've hit that age in my life (43) where I'm like fk it time to get my dream (midlife crisis) car.

Looking at importing one in and seeing if these can be reliable if the main flaws are fixed up.

Plan is to keep money aside to do the following straight off the bat to future proof it:

* install a stage 1 rebuilt trans with all new bits and pieces. 
* install a new Bellhousing from the later model GTRs. Or potentially an upgraded stronger version like MAD or ATR.

Besides the above two things and typical maintenance items anything else you'd recommend doing.

 

Been speaking to a few people and the engine on these are very reliable apparently. But keen on the view of the community here.

Hoping to find a nice grade 4.5 with low mileage in Grey. I'd go black but swirls too easy.


Look forward to your responses and feedback.

Cheers

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486101-questions-on-potential-new-purchase/
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

How do our rules work in Aus with importing one, since they were sold locally here?

You can bring them in from the first model until Nissan Oz sold them, and then again since Nissan Oz stopped selling them (I think, on the second)

  • Like 1
35 minutes ago, Duncan said:

You can bring them in from the first model until Nissan Oz sold them, and then again since Nissan Oz stopped selling them (I think, on the second)

Ahhh! My silly brain was thinking Nissan started selling them straight away, but they waited w or three years didn't they?

 

Maybe Duncan should build an R35 race car over the V37... There's a cheap yellow one on car sales Duncan, would only need your splash of purple added...

Edited by MBS206
On 09/02/2025 at 11:27 AM, GTSBoy said:

The usual gamble is the usual gamble. Hawkins bought one last year. Very nice, found in Japan via the usual mates.

Blew it up just driving it around. It's just roulette.

Yeah saw that video on YouTube. But he got a R grade (repaired) high mileage model and proudly advertised the fact it was super cheap and no doubt with issues.

I wouldn't be going the cheap and nasty route.

  • 5 months later...
9 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

I'm a strong believer that old sports cars should be reserved as weekend cars

Bah. I daily mine. ~60km per work day, 10-12 thousand km per year. What's the point of having a dirty old Datto and leaving it in the shed. It needs to be driven and enjoyed while the govco allows us to do so. It will only be a few years before we're forbidden to even start up internal combustion engines.

Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer? 

Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively). 

And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...