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15 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

The kit from Just Japanese requires no wiring.

I'm glad they have changed (fixed) that. 

It would be maybe 5 or 6 years ago when I bought a DW400 "skyline specific" kit, sure the sticker on the box said it was a skyline specific kit.... but it was just the basic fuel pump wiring kit. 

Even the pictures on Just Japanese show the generic wiring on this skyline specific pump. So maybe its a very recent change? 

Pump.jpg

On 20/03/2025 at 1:39 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

The kit from Just Japanese requires no wiring.

@Kinkstaah FTW! 
Thank you... hahaha mine is in stock-ish boost and the use case is not to chase power. I mainly want to make sure the 20 year old pump is changed

  • Like 1

Thats the thing - They do supply the wiring...... but you can just unplug your stock OEM pump and plug it directly into the DW340.

image.thumb.png.10279b55cffcb25544216527e2ec10f9.png

I had a stock backup pump here and thought to myself "That looks a lot like the OEM plug for a stock GTT pump" and lo and behold, it is.

  • Like 3

Ah, nice.

What's the go with the check valve situation? I'd assume it would have one considering its a low flow pump so should have a heap of room to work with.... but you never know with DW lol. 

I'm not entirely sure WRT internal check valve. I am lucky enough to run my fuel pressure at 43psi :p. I assume it's higher than 43psi as I needed no retuning after changing pumps from a Walbro 460 which was the variant that had the 120psi check valve which I think they turned into 525? (I am unsure)

The check valve is just a little one way valve to keep the fuel line full for the next time you start the car. 

With my old DW400 pump, you'd key on and have zero fuel pressure. Crank the car and still have zero fuel pressure. 

Would take about 3 or 4 goes at starting the car for the pump to build fuel pressure and finally start. 

Sounds like it's a safe bet that it has one considering you didn't mention any issues with cold starts. 

 

Well, on that note no - I don't actually have much in the way of pressure, but priming the car results in.. having pressure. I confess that I probably have to do two prime cycles for the pressure to actually *stay* at 43psi but it will obviously bleed off pretty slowly in my one, isolated setup.

In my experience it'll start after a crank or three tops. But we're talking about a modified LS in my case. So experiences with RB may vary, though I never touched much/any of the startup cranking stuff for the OEM ECU.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Good news!!! Changed the O ring today and I’ve got the “pssshhhh” back when I open the fuel cap 😂🙌🏼🙌🏼

It was 100% the O ring because that bloody thing was inside the fuel tank 😂😂😂😂😂

Fitting new fuel pump was a pain as always since the DW is a bit longer than stock. But she’s running!!! ❤️

Edited by DraftySquash
  • Like 2
19 minutes ago, DraftySquash said:

....It was 100% the O ring because that bloody thing was inside the fuel tank 😂😂😂😂😂.....

Ha! well, there's your problem! 

Guess the last person in there didn't have great attention to detail....

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
On 29/3/2025 at 6:25 PM, Duncan said:

Ha! well, there's your problem! 

Guess the last person in there didn't have great attention to detail....

Hahaa yup. The last person used the same screwdriver and hammer method to undo the lock. But I don’t think they got the memo on being gentle 😂

 

there is one mystery left, this suspicious stain on the left is….suspicious 

I don’t understand how it could have happened 

IMG_1312.thumb.jpeg.2e916e43fa8da71f64ec7c22677f714b.jpeg

Edited by DraftySquash

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