Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With my block out to get honed, I'm just prepping all my auxiliary components in my mean time. I took my oil pump apart to inspect and repack it with assembly lube and either haven't noticed this in the past or found my answer and can't remember. What exactly is the regulator washer that the manual mentions replacing? I don't have one and from the manual it seems to seal the regulator plug to the housing but I can't see it on any pictures of new pumps either.

Can anyone fill me in? I'm presuming this was phased out as I also can't find a replacement part in epc. 

image.thumb.png.72aa050883f1b81a0786470b6324dfd0.png

 

Image of a new pump. Can't see a washer there either.

image-117__91243.1529961945_17a87694-5fd9-4424-ac75-d0dc8ad1c9d5_1020x665.thumb.webp.901dbd7fb5fa731beb6f2db25d26e9d0.webp

Edited by TurboTapin
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486184-rb25-oil-pump-regulator-washer/
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

With my block out to get honed, I'm just prepping all my auxiliary components in my mean time. I took my oil pump apart to inspect and repack it with assembly lube and either haven't noticed this in the past or found my answer and can't remember. What exactly is the regulator washer that the manual mentions replacing? I don't have one and from the manual it seems to seal the regulator plug to the housing but I can't see it on any pictures of new pumps either.

Can anyone fill me in? I'm presuming this was phased out as I also can't find a replacement part in epc. 

image.thumb.png.72aa050883f1b81a0786470b6324dfd0.png

 

Image of a new pump. Can't see a washer there either.

image-117__91243.1529961945_17a87694-5fd9-4424-ac75-d0dc8ad1c9d5_1020x665.thumb.webp.901dbd7fb5fa731beb6f2db25d26e9d0.webp

Weirdly I see a flat washer on aftermarket pumps but as you said it doesn't seem like new OEM pumps have it. EPC doesn't break out the regulator as a separate component either. I'm guessing if the pump came that way it's safe to use as-is. 

Meh, what's the worst that can happen? If is is supposed to have a washer, and:

  • the spring retainer seals reasonably well on the surface, maybe just allowing a little bleed of oil out, and
  • the spring does not coil bind when compressed that little extra bit, then

the end result will be slightly higher relief pressure setpoint, and no other noticeable effects.

It's purpose will be to stop the regulator plug from leaking oil.

As GTS said, if it seals properly, it will mainly just have the effect of slightly higher oil pressure. I'll assume tolerances/fitment in the relief valve aren't that close that the washer being missing won't let it vent at 100% capacity too.

12 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Weirdly I see a flat washer on aftermarket pumps but as you said it doesn't seem like new OEM pumps have it. EPC doesn't break out the regulator as a separate component either. I'm guessing if the pump came that way it's safe to use as-is. 

 

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Meh, what's the worst that can happen? If is is supposed to have a washer, and:

  • the spring retainer seals reasonably well on the surface, maybe just allowing a little bleed of oil out, and
  • the spring does not coil bind when compressed that little extra bit, then

the end result will be slightly higher relief pressure setpoint, and no other noticeable effects.

 

6 hours ago, MBS206 said:

It's purpose will be to stop the regulator plug from leaking oil.

As GTS said, if it seals properly, it will mainly just have the effect of slightly higher oil pressure. I'll assume tolerances/fitment in the relief valve aren't that close that the washer being missing won't let it vent at 100% capacity too.

 

This is a pump I have used in the past; no oil ever leaks or gets past the regulator plug.I was trying to understand what caused Nissan to not only mention it in their manuals but to also state it's a replacement part yet the part cannot be found on my pump or on any new pumps and there doesn't seem to have ever been a replacement part#. 

First time I've noticed something strange like this from NIssan. 

 

 

17 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

 

 

 

This is a pump I have used in the past; no oil ever leaks or gets past the regulator plug.I was trying to understand what caused Nissan to not only mention it in their manuals but to also state it's a replacement part yet the part cannot be found on my pump or on any new pumps and there doesn't seem to have ever been a replacement part#. 

First time I've noticed something strange like this from NIssan. 

 

 

I have seen this happen in cases like the R33 GTR where they eliminated the ATTESA actuator rod retaining clip to save 5 cents. Parts diagram references it, the actual part doesn't. Also if you try and look up the specific retaining clip on an R33 GTR it resolves to nothing. But it exists on R32 GTRs as I discovered a week or two ago.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...