Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

[StevenJames32]

Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup.

Here's what I know so far:

On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed.

Now onto what I don't know:

1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?.

2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold.

3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted.

If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....

 

[StevenJames32]

Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion.

Parts list:

- 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil) 

- v-band top mount turbo manifold

- 50mm wastegate

- manifold copper gasket

- titanium manifold stud kit

- turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid

- link can lambda kit (wideband)

- link ECU

- radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair)

- hi octane catch can

- 3.5inch downpipe

- screamer pipe

- pipe from turbo to intercooler

- intake pipe setup

- power steering relocation kit

- oil drain block off plate

- coolant and oil lines

Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed:

1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's

2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side.

3. remove heat shields 

4. remove the downpipe

5. remove turbos and manifolds

6. remove factory manifold studs

7. clean whatever mess you have made

8. install power steering relocation kit

9. install new manifold studs

10. install new turbo manifold with gasket

11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe

12. install new turbo 

13. install new coolant and oil lines 

14. install rear oil drain block off plate

15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR

16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe

17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe

18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler

19 .remove stock boost solenoid 

20. install new boost solenoid

21.  install intake setup

22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu 

23. refill fluids and hope for the best

24. ask forums for help with issues

25. fix issues

26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset.

Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...

[GTSBoy]

Threads merged. Only need one for the same question.

[Duncan]

Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one.

Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need:

Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor)

Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s)

Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block

Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter

Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block.

Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard.

All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular)

You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time)

Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road.

BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)