Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

220rwkw is way too optimistic... if you had a bigger turbz i'd believe it.

But as long as the car feels better, dont worry about high reading dynos. Driveabllity is more important

well yeah, i love the way the car feels now regardless of how many kw it reads. for the first time yesterday i almost lost control overtaking someone

feels great, im happy

wont let me upload the graph at the moment

will try again later

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think what insant is trying to say is the they've bodged up the dyno figure to make it look like a good dyno tune, also the stock clutch is good for about 180-190rwkw, whats it like at 220?

If the dyno used was Bresciani's then my 220rwkw was backed up at Selectmaz very closely.

It may be possible the turbo has been modified without being able to see the difference. looking forward to seeing the dyno plot.

Where the hell were all you buggers all weekend? Phillip Island was awesome.

  • 2 months later...

have you changed the o2 sensor in the last 50,000 ks? goto autobarn, repco get a ford el faclon oxygen sensor, its a standard bosch or whatever brand it is. should take around 1 hour to install at the most. unscrew old one its on the exhaust dump pipe just after the turbo, right behind the turbo heat shield, cut the plug wires off, and replace with new one. The oxygen sensor has two same colour wires and 1 unique colour wire so you can't get it wrong. Match the two same colour wires to the car loom and the unique to unique on the loom. I was getting 250ks to a full tank. Replaced o2 sensor and got around 350 odd

The o2 sensor is only supposed to last 40,000 ks

yeah its around $100 ish. i paid $125 at repco for a AAA brand one i think.

nissan ones genuine are like $250 or something stupid so if you ask for the ford el or as japcab said that place in bayswater

what size is the 31 fuel tank, i think the 33 only takes like 55 litres tops

whereas the aus 31s and vl (im guessing similar fuel tank) took a good 65-70 litres.

does that sound right? the purpose of the o2 is to save fuel by giving feedback to the ecu, without it (as in dead after 50,000 odd or unplugged) the ecu just never goes into save fuel mode, well at least thats what ive learnt and read up on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...