Jump to content
SAU Community

Price of r34 gtr average condition??


Recommended Posts

I am in the hunt for one of these however cannot afford the $100k for the top condition ones.

My question is; what would the price be for a 1. fairly bad one and 2. a good average one. I am talking non v-spec with nil mods. The basic GTR

Is it true that all of them will have at least some accident damage to them being an import ?

Any help would be appreciated, cheers jr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am in the hunt for one of these however cannot afford the $100k for the top condition ones.

My question is; what would the price be for a 1. fairly bad one and 2. a good average one. I am talking non v-spec with nil mods.  The basic GTR  

Is it true that all of them will have at least some accident damage to them being an import ?

Any help would be appreciated,    cheers jr

The price is subjective right now as noone is really selling any so people just make up a price and run with it. For example, SWOOP recently sold his nicely modded GTR V-Spec for more than $100k. It had about 20k in mods though so it was probably worth in that vicinity at the time.

On the other hand PowerPlay imports have a pretty stock 99 GTR (some minor mods worth about 3k max) with 36000 kms on the clock for $115k. This is overpriced but someone may pay it.

On the import side of things you're looking at $80k and up for a good mid to low K's GTR or V-Spec. Or $72k and up for a standard GTR with maybe a few paint blemishes and medium to high KM.

Occasionally you see some "bargains" for $65k - $72k but they either have high kilometers or some other problems.

And accident damage - well no you cannot have any serious accident damaged or you will not be able to get the car complied at all. Under SEVS serious accident damaged cars must be re-exported or destroyed.

I guess there is some small chance that the car you get will have been in a small ding and have panel repairs but thats just the same as buying any second hand car anywhere at any time throughout history.

These prices factor in compliance etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Vanos solenoid problems and basically all sensors die an early death 
    • Yep, back in the day when you could pick up a Stagea RB25 NEO for $1,500 it was worth it. These days... just chuck your V8 or B58 in.
    • from my limited BMW experience: - they burn oil WTF (B48 FTW 170kW engine) - dump oil every 5,000km and you'll be ok.. until it drops a bearing and rebuild time. replace engine with B58
    • I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup. The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends. Even with a baffled, gated sump. I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.
    • They absolutely are, but the thing is, if you're only exposed to these circuits for a while, what I normally think is good driving suddenly isn't so much. I was a pussy at the Nurburgring (GP) entering corners at 180kph - the difference in the balance of the car suddenly becomes so much more pronounced and I'm still a bit regarded at left-foot braking - something I now practice on my commute. So the (dream) plan with the E90 is to make it a 325i Cup car. Whether I get there or not is another matter. In my mind the simplicity of having the NA variant and cost made it a bit more appealing. Plus, like mentioned above, I'm actually too much of a pussy for big power. Of course I f**ked up by not researching enough on the N53 vs N52, the latter being more robust without the DI system.  Suspension-wise on the BMW, and I've been reading the technical requirements for the 325i cup, basically everything except struts has to be standard - bushes are free. I figure you get about 5-10mm adjustment with the rear camber bolts which should translate to 0.5- 1.5 degrees of adjustment. So with coilovers, lowered at 30/40mm I expect I can dial out some of the camber from a drop and attain -1.5 to -2. If necessary, I could get the same effect as the M3 arms with some offset bushes. There is a limitation on ARB width to qualify, although I absolutely want to get either M3 ARBs (can't say sway incase I upset GTSBoy) or the H&R ones - both of these are the cheapest options. Like mentioned, M3 arms are on the way and I should have them fitted within the next week. How are the BC Racing coilovers btw? Reviews are mixed but I think for me they would be fine; a friend of mine uses them on his R34 for track driving and has nothing bad to say. I'm looking at these or the ST coilovers (German brand, new to me) as prescriped the in Cup spec sheet. They're both similarly priced and offer camber adjustment. It's fine but it really upsets my OCD. I've got a couple of options for dialing out the rear camber and keeping my ill-fitting wheels: raise the rear a little bit, say 5mm, that should permit -2.5 camber or drop the front to restore that slight bias of more negative camber up front (not optimal with the roads here). The next alignment won't be until at least next year and I really need to rebuild the rear subframe. For now, I'm not using it at all on the streets except occasional blasts through the German countryside. I was covering about 10k kms p/year in Japan, I expect this to now be about 3-4k. You could say buy better sized wheels, and yes, I should have. But the wheels came from the Z and price of good wheels is just insane now. Again, a couple of options: get a new set (I want 17" RPF1s) or buy two used 9.5J TEs, both are about the same price excluding shipping. 
×
×
  • Create New...