Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All! I have a bit of a problem

I bought a power FC for my auto 34 but recently found out it wont work!!!!! so now I need to find a good computer that will work- considering theres a few ppl on here with autos I was wondering if anyone knows of any???

AboBob if you see this have you looked at this for yours by any chance??

thanks people!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49298-r34gtt-auto-computer/
Share on other sites

Wolf 3d causes shift problems. You can use an emanage. Check the What is the Greddy Emanage thread which is stickied in the Forced Induction section.

Also I started a thread called Info for GTT Tiptronic owners here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...light=tiptronic

Mine is a one off at the moment but I will let everybody know when you can get them for yourselves.

If you want you can come over on the weekend some time and I'll take you for a spin so you know what a modified stock ECU is capable of.

Bit of a messy dyno run here but you get the picture http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=49209

Yeah I spoke to PowerPlay and they mentioned the Greddy Emanage to me aswell- I think they can get them?? but they're also pretty expensive from what Ive heard.. Power play also said they have an ECU ROM they had made themselves for the autos but its $2500 for a 29kw increase and I dont know what happens if you get more mods for it later..

u pretty much can use any of the local computers as long as u retain the factoy computer to run the tipronic...what needs to be done is to piggy back the unit onto ur standard comp....emanage can do this but i heard there not that great....haltech,microtech,ems....will all work...i personally favour the haltech...cheers!

The Haltech one sounds like it could be good!!! any idea on when its released??

As far as the Apexi one goes I plugged it in and turned it on and checked the warning lights and they were ok- but I didnt try and drive it though cause I dont have a hand controller and I wasnt sure what sort of tune is on it... The main problem only happens apparently while its driving

I guess you could put a uni chip in if its available but you cant tune them as well as a full comp or piggy back

Did you try the Power FC, or did you just listen to the rumours?

I have a PFC in my series 1 R33, and it works well, yet I have heard others say they have had trouble.

The Power FC cannot control the tiptronic auto gearbox in the R34 GTT's hence why it can't be used. The only ECU that can is the Nissan OEM ECU

Not rumours... Fact

The Haltech one sounds like it could be good!!! any idea on when its released??

As far as the Apexi one goes I plugged it in and turned it on and checked the warning lights and they were ok- but I didnt try and drive it though cause I dont have a hand controller and I wasnt sure what sort of tune is on it... The main problem only happens apparently while its driving

I guess you could put a uni chip in if its available but you cant tune them as well as a full comp or piggy back

i think ur refering to the haltech interceptor comp...its targeted to compete with stuff like unichip and emanage ....'inside goss forot to tell u' its not available for skylines!!! only ford xr6 and wrx's.....it all comes down to budget!!!!!! put out a price ur willing to spend and get the best computer for it :) the top of the range haltech was put on a manual r34 ie. e11v2 the owner said it was better than standard if that is any indication...in terms of economy and power :headspin: :headspin:

theres a guy in the for sale section who can mod the stock ecu and remove boost and fuel cuts and take off other limits and optimize a/f ration for about $300 i tihnk it is. the thread is titled r32 / r33 ecu remap. he can do r34 as well, which should do the auto fine as its the original oem ecu

Can't you just run the PFC as a piggyback and get it to control everything else except the Auto??

Hope so, cause I was getting the AP-PFC with this in mind for my R32 GTS4 RB20 Auto.

It should be able to handle all the std sensors etc I would have thought.

The ECU I have at the moment was custom tuned by Martin Donnon & Simon at Morpowa after driving it to Adelaide. (170Kw) BUT I cant drive to Adelaide every time I change something :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...