Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone knows or has any ideas about this loud whistling noise that goes on for 2 secs straight after my car has turned off.... i try hearing where it comes from and its definately near the turbo/manifold/compressor area....was thinking it might be the bearings....but my t28 turbo runs perfectly and boosts up properly and even on high boost....

I had a really loud whistling noise once the car warmed up once.

Popped the bonnet couldn't see anything.

It was a pin hole in the top radiator hose.

What I found interesting is at first there was no signs of steam.

Just a damn loud whistling noise.

Just wondering if anyone knows or has any ideas about this loud whistling noise that goes on for 2 secs straight after my car has turned off.... i try hearing where it comes from and its definately near the turbo/manifold/compressor area....was thinking it might be the bearings....but my t28 turbo runs perfectly and boosts up properly and even on high boost....

mine does this too.. Sounds liek the car is sucking back or something..

Not sure but I'll monitor this thread and let you know if I find the problem.

Its just as you shut the motor off right? ass soon as it stops you get a suck back kind of noise?

It sounds just like a kookaburra. no joke, i know it sounds weird and funny but it sounds just like it and goes for like 2-3 seconds...even whe im just idling at the lights waiting...it sometimes goes off again....its definately near the turbo area....

It sounds just like a kookaburra. no joke, i know it sounds weird and funny....

Are you sure you didn't suck a kookaburra into your engine while you had the air filter off? That would cause a kookaburra noise.

I think it happens a lot with the bonnet scoop on the WRX sti as well, birds and small children often get sucked into the engine

Check your belts, eg, alternator, power steering, A/C if all are ok maybe your timing belt pulley is seising up, it tends to try and jump off the pulleys on down revs,

How many km on the clock? if 100,000km it will be due for timing belt change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...