Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is it only the right mirror that needs to be replaced troy?

intrusion bars i will get my bro in law to do... so thats not too much of an issue but where do u actually get them from??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49465-the-beast/page/3/#findComment-989185
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

oh when i make them i use 70x25mm box section and make it in 2 sections so you can get it in the door....then i join the two peices up by using 3 peices of 20x20 stacked on top of each other and i make those slide into each peice by about half the length of each 70x25 box section(telescopic)....then i weld it all up in place and by the time youve welded them it takes up the 7mm diffrence in the 3 peices of 20x20(20x3 =60...inside of main intrusion bar is around 67mm)make any sense?Why dont you do them yourself?You say you are a panel beater by trade,shouldnt be too hard for you......As it is your safety thats is at stake,and its usually only the rh glass that needs to be done...you could change the other side if you want to be anal and keep them both the same

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49465-the-beast/page/3/#findComment-989322
Share on other sites

ni you must be stoked!!! My car made it to Sydney a couple of weeks ago, apparently waiting for parts for compliance?? It's been that long that it doesn't really feel like i've bought a car anymore, it's just this thing that i have to keep trying to move forward. It must feel great to finally get to drive the beast!

AND SHAN REPLY TO MY EMAILS/PM'S/MSN MESSAGES YOU LAZY BASTARD :P i need to bout this Masa kit...

what was the reason for your hold up ni? I had a 2 import approvals go missing.... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49465-the-beast/page/3/#findComment-989366
Share on other sites

oh when i make them i use 70x25mm box section and make it in 2 sections so you can get it in the door....then i join the two peices up by using 3 peices of 20x20 stacked on top of each other and i make those slide into each peice by about half the length of each 70x25 box section(telescopic)....then i weld it all up in place and by the time youve welded them it takes up the 7mm diffrence in the 3 peices of 20x20(20x3 =60...inside of main intrusion bar is around 67mm)make any sense?Why dont you do them yourself?You say you are a panel beater by trade,shouldnt be too hard for you......As it is your safety thats is at stake,and its usually only the rh glass that needs to be done...you could change the other side if you want to be anal and keep them both the same

sweet as thanks troy... my bro in law has the welder so i'll just get him to do it for me... hes a lot better with the welder than i am.

thanks for the instructions mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49465-the-beast/page/3/#findComment-989662
Share on other sites

ni you must be stoked!!! My car made it to Sydney a couple of weeks ago, apparently waiting for parts for compliance?? It's been that long that it doesn't really feel like i've bought a car anymore, it's just this thing that i have to keep trying to move forward. It must feel great to finally get to drive the beast!

AND SHAN REPLY TO MY EMAILS/PM'S/MSN MESSAGES YOU LAZY BASTARD :P i need to bout this Masa kit...

what was the reason for your hold up ni? I had a 2 import approvals go missing.... :)

hehehe yeah very happy its finally here... makes it all seem worth it :)

the main hold up was myself getting the money together in time... other than that everything else went pretty smoothly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49465-the-beast/page/3/#findComment-989674
Share on other sites

nark come past my work i'll fix ya a mirror for ya :)

 

and yeah, it is only the right one that needs to be flat

hehehe cool... once i get a UVP for it i'll drive over ur side of town :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49465-the-beast/page/3/#findComment-989675
Share on other sites

what's a UVP? oh wait... Unregistered Vehicle Permit??? Do you have details on that because my car might be down here in Melbourne before it can be regoed as well...

cheers.

oh and if you see or talk to Shan, tell him to reply to my various msg's!!! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49465-the-beast/page/3/#findComment-989682
Share on other sites

lol chinny... yeah thats what it is... u have to ring vic roads to get em... u can either pick em up or have it faxed thru... cant remember the costs involved... depends on how long u want it for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49465-the-beast/page/3/#findComment-989738
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...