Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, i found a problem with your mod. that green wire is also the power wire for the demister for the rear window.once cut you will loose the demister.well its like that on my s1 33.ill have another play with the modual and see if i can cut the feed further down the line after the power has already been routed off to the demister control switch.ether that or run a new power wire to the switch so it can still operate.

Jack

ok guys i had another poke around in there,so far i havn't been able to by pass it and still keep the demister operational.i had a play with the "black box" the one that clicks when the central locking operates and found the wires that have power when the lock or unlock function is trigerd.iv yet to try it but ill try and route a wire straight to the switch on the drivers side door and triger it from there and then cut the lock triger wire on the black box so i dont loose the lock function on the passengers side door all together.on another note i found the triger wire for that anoying buzzer under the dash on the drivers side that beeps when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open.as many of you would know simply unpluging this buzzer means you also loose the power windows and what not. i havn't tryed it yet but hopfully cuttin this wire will cut the buzzer out and still enable the windows to work.

ill take some pictures and give you guys some pin outs tomorrow when the camera is charged.

Jack

  • 10 months later...

hey guys

this threadis old as but yesigot a 96s2 and mines got theauto lock

shits me cus weni have the keys in the car and i shut the car door it locks them in

mindu i do also have an aftermarket viper allarm

but they do lock on takeoff

and unlock when i turn the car off

cheers

DRIFTZY

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 years later...

You lose the demister but......

I managed to stop mine, Mine was only locking the passanger door above a certain speed. One day the actuator started playing up and wasnt moving far enough to unlock the door. Mate happened to be wrecking a S2 NA R33 and I grabbed the actuator out of it. Since then the door doesnt lock automatically.

Noticed that the S2 actuator had pins in it instead of 3 like the S1. Same plug otherwise, just a pin missing

Hopefully it helps

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...