Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have put new fluid in my auto box and can report sharper shifting although it could be better. I don't think I got all the fluid out of the torque converter so I have ended up with a mix of old and new fluid.

There is a machine that flushes the old out and the new in.

I'm sure some other workshops have the machine, I know Midas do.

aslong as the gearbox is in neatral and not revved it should be fine just to pump the oil out as its under no load.

But yeh, ill be getting it done properly soon, along with some other mods if they can do it for the right price

im yet to find a automatic transmission workshop that has done alot of work on skylines etc

aslong as the gearbox is in neatral and not revved it should be fine just to pump the oil out as its under no load.  

But yeh, ill be getting it done properly soon, along with some other mods if they can do it for the right price

im yet to find a automatic transmission workshop that has done alot of work on skylines etc

skyline gearboxes aren't that dissimilar from the VL so any workshop should have a fair idea of what they're doing...

my mechanic changed my auto gearbox oil / filter / gasket with no hassles...

latest zoom mag rd26 and auto in 33 4 door mv automatics in sa are doing the box rang them today and shift kit with 2500 rpm convertor $800 said the only problem is maybe a worn band $90 all this plus fitting tyhink ill be beefing my auto

latest zoom mag rd26 and auto in 33 4 door  mv automatics in sa are doing the box  rang them today and shift kit with 2500 rpm convertor $800  said the only problem is maybe a worn band  $90 all this plus fitting   tyhink ill be beefing my auto

Bastard!!!

Thats exacly what i want too!

I knew Mv Auto are good, heard about them before. I just need a place up here that can do it (Qld) Do me a favour and next time you talk to Mv auto ask them if they know any places in Qld for skyline automatics. Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeah will probably have to look at beefing mine up after the FMIC is done ..... dont really know anyone in perth that does autos tho :cheers: :confused: Trannie cooler will be first thing

I have had my auto done by MV automatics, it chirps nicely between gear changes when you add a bit of power.

I would recommend them.

I've got a mate who got a shift kit for a V8 Soarer from MV... Nothing but positive comments from me...

Did you just do the shift kit Sleeper? Or a complete rebuild? Costs if I can ask??

The mate with the Soarer got his shift kit exchange...

IE... He paid the money, they sent the new valve body up here in a box, we fitted the new valve body on a hoist, he sent the old valve body back...

I'll probably do the same thing when the time comes...

Cost was around $450 IIRC... Plus tranny oil...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...