Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If anyone has done it can you go through all the thinigs that have to be changed to get it though regency and anything i should look out for, i have read in another section that if i take it through once and it fails, i dont get another attempt, is this true? it is an r32 skyline! any help will be appreciated.

It is state specific. You get as many chances as it takes.

I got my 32GTR through in March this year, needs an engineering cert.

which means you need the following things done.

**Engineering Cert**

**Side intrusion bars installed in the doors**

**Child restraints Installed**

**disabled any turbo timers**

**make sure the car meets normal ADR's(exhaust/mods etc)**

The rules have change abit in the last year, and the following things

NO LONGER need doing:

*mirrors changed from convex to flat*

*unleaded fuel restrictor ("Unleaded Only" sticker required)*

I think thats it really.

If I think of anything else will post it up or just PM me should you want more info.

This was for an 89' R32 GTR.

Cheers,

Stirlo

cheers stirlo, that is what i thought, i didn't know about the new changes with the mirrors and fuel filler restrictions so that will save me some time. thanks.

Any one else had different experiences? its only a gts :) so i dont think i will have too much trouble.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I took my DR30 through, got it passed first time.

Just make sure the car is clean and presentable, same with yourself and don't act fully uleh

Oh, and the only ADR's it has to adhere to are the ones on one of the forms you should have already, I think it might have been the 'approval to import for registration' one?

  • 5 months later...
It is state specific...

The rules have change abit in the last year, and the following things  

NO LONGER need doing:

*mirrors changed from convex to flat*

*unleaded fuel restrictor ("Unleaded Only" sticker required)*

Stirlo

Can anyone confirm that this is the case for WA?

if you speak to transport SA, they will give you a list of things that need changing prior to inspection (side intrusion bars, child restraint anchor points ect)

then you need to make sure you have nothing else defectable ie external venting blow of valves, non adr approved steeringwheels, turbotimers ect ect.

then make sure car is clean with no signs of oil leaks in the engine bay ect.

do all that and you should get through

Abit off topic, but does anyone know if the stamp duty, when you register the car (usually 3% of market value in most states) is calculated on the proper market value of the car in australia now or the purchase price from when we bought it in japan?

Here in QLD I reg'd my R32 GTR for the first time. When they asked how much I said $20000. If you go off your auction or dealer receipt you can't go wrong.

Here in QLD I reg'd my R32 GTR for the first time.  When they asked how much I said $20000.  If you go off your auction or dealer receipt you can't go wrong.

Basically, the cost price of my car was really cheap, under 4k. When the market value is probably 12-14k. Is it gonna be ok if I show them the receipt for 4k write that as my purchase price?

Basically, the cost price of my car was really cheap, under 4k. When the market value is probably 12-14k. Is it gonna be ok if I show them the receipt for 4k write that as my purchase price?

if you intend to insure the car ...declare market value at rego @ the same amount you want it insured for

smart ass insurer can can use rego declared value for payout

has happened to mate of mine...20k car declared @ 10k (for rego stamp duty) insurer paid out 10k only

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...