Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I'm lookin for some front mount piping to DIY, I wanna do the pipes the right way around (ie, no cold air-over-the-hot-engine) deal, noone seems interested in doing a job like this for a decent non-exorbitant price...

Gonna be needing a few bends/silicon hose/silicon reducers, piping.....

Where can I get some of this stuff from ?

Is the standard piping 2.5" ?

Cheers guys,

-Kym.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50466-looking-for-ic-piping/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i got my intercooler + piping for $1100ish landed which i thought was a pretty good deal. Then fitted it myself. Pipes do go over the top of the engine tho, where else are you gunna put em through?

$350 - $400 sounds awfully cheap, let us know how you go tho

Kim I did my piping myself ... wasn't too hard

I have a Hybrid 600x300 type thing. I used the standard piping down past the pod filter, and then the far side of the cooler (the cold side) turned back around behind the cooler to join up with the standard piping.

It worked well I think ... no extra lag noticed and was good enough to make nearly 250rwhp at SST on standard turbo.

I'm changing it soon though as I have a new turbo going on .. but for stock turbo the setup seemed to work well :cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...

slightly off topic but still on intercooler piping. who can make up custom cooler piping? ie which workshop? Not for my car, I got FMIC already :rofl: but for my bro's GT4 Celica. Looking mild steel but stainless would also be considered. I heard Per4manz can do cool piping? anywhere else?

Update: Picked up my SS Mandrel Bends and bits of pipe from Allbend Engineering in Ossie Park, cost me $104 all up, now I just gotta pick up some silicon piping reducers, and some hose clamps and put it all together...

I've decided to go with the 180degree bend on one side of the cooler to retain the stock return/output pipes. I'm going to do a comparison between the "over-the-engine" and using stock pipes myself as noone has any hard facts.....

hey strick,

glad to hear buddy. i went to allbends on friday, and he said that they only had 2 1/2inch pipe, so using a hybrid 3inch cooler would require reducers.

i would love to know how you go with the install, maybe some pics :D if you want a hand to help, let me know i would love to as i want to do the same for myself.

maybe we can get cheaper reducers or clamps if we buy bulk. let me know :(

God Bless,

Nate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...