Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

gor33, if u have a series 1 steering wheel then I think u can put the airbag into my steering wheel....I'd let it go for $200 - it cost me $350 to have it reupholstered. I'd like to sell the rear GTR badge with the boot lid.

I've taken all the seats out of the car...back seats are sold but the front are still available. The drivers seat has a small crack in the plastic on the side but everything else is fine...(seats need a clean now, but nothing a good scrub won't get rid off) all serious offers considered for these...

Most other parts still available....

I am interested in:

- Driver side power window button, inc. loom.

- Cigarette lighter (not the whole socket, just detachable part).

- Front indicator covers, assuming you have the round spot light type ones. Clear preferred, but may take orange depending on price.

Please PM or post prices for these items.

thanks for the comments Glenn, enjoy mate....

Guys the intercooler is back up for sale...I was going to put it on my R32 as the cooler on that car has some busted fins in a circle the size a 10cent coin, but I just did a smoke test through the cooler and it was fine!!!! I got my R33 cooler flow tested the other day at a radiator and intercooler shop who said that it was fine. They have cleaned it and given it a new coat of black paint. The damage is only minor now that I can see it properly. I will try to get pics of it....looking around the $600 mark for it....

Price drop on GTR intercooler $500.

Also, the car has an 80mm thick stainless steel cat back exhaust which is squashed in one section (about 15-20cm long) just before the muffler (canon muffler). This shouldn't be an issue to fix, just cut out that section and weld another piece of stainless steel. This will fit R33 GTS-T and GTR, chasing $400 entire exhaust (its about 8 months old)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...