Jump to content
SAU Community

FUEL! Optimax, Ultimate, or Synergy 8000

geno8r

By geno8r,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

geno8r Grand Master

geno8r

Posted
Posted

Hi

I'm getting my car dyno tuned very shortly and the mechanic asked me what fuel i usually run. I said optimax. He said that they tested fuels and for the best tuning results it was.

1. Ultimate

2. Synergy 8000

3. Optimax.

Now i've done a little searching around on the net and it seems that it's a fight between Synergy and Ultimate for the best tuning performance.

Now to be vehicle specific with skylines... Can any1 post what they've had their car tuned to and what their mechanic said about tuning with certain fuels.

Cheers,

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

makaveli Mentor

makaveli

Posted
Posted

On 3 occaisions I have used Optimax and during all three my car ran like shit, It also caused my cat to stuff up.

I have used Ultimate and it seems great, although I always used Synergy without a doubt as its always been great with my car.

take it easy

Mark

clarkey Proficient

clarkey

Posted
Posted
Hi

I'm getting my car dyno tuned very shortly and the mechanic asked me what fuel i usually run.  I said optimax.  He said that they tested fuels and for the best tuning results it was.

1. Ultimate

2. Synergy 8000

3. Optimax.

Now i've done a little searching around on the net and it seems that it's a fight between Synergy and Ultimate for the best tuning performance.  

Now to be vehicle specific with skylines... Can any1 post what they've had their car tuned to and what their mechanic said about tuning with certain fuels.

Cheers,

Yeah thats probably the same order I'd use them as well. Ultimate is probably more difficult to locate but only optimax if I cant find the other two

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

I always run Ultimate but will settle for Synergy 8000 if that's all I can find.

Optimax has given me less than good results. It's a shame though because it's easy to find where I live but I have to drive 5k's to get Ultimate :cheers:

Essential Community Regular

Essential

Posted
Posted

I have found Ultimate to be the best out of the

Ultimate vs Optimax battle..

I was once informed that Optimax is 'Up to 98 ron'

where as Ultimate 'Is 98 ron'

Anyway my advice is, pick a petrol and stick to it .. dont keep changing fuels or alternating between synergy and ultimate.

I have also found...

shit.. i forgot what i was going to say :cheers:

abcent Mentor

abcent

Posted
Posted

Currently using Synergy8000, was usung optimax for ages.....noticed the fumes (exhaust) did actually smell more, an the synergy8000 runs cleaner. Not really fussed between Mobil or BP 98 fuels, both seem to be a good product. But like most, only opt for Shell when have to.

fade Apprentice

fade

Posted
Posted

Never had any experience with synergy, but I have talked to a couple of people in the know and basically what I was told was that Ultimate is refined to get 98 ron and Optimax just uses additives to get 98 ron. For this reason the Optimax will lose ron faster then Ultimate.

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

Everything I have read on public forums indicates the ultimate fuel to be the superior product.

But for some reason I get a noticeable improvement in fuel economy with optimax. Approx. 1-1.5km/L better.

I have seen many people mention the arguments about the optimax being "up to 98ron" and that it has additives to raise the ron level and ultimate is refined to 98 ron.

Does anybody have any documentation or links on the web to support these claims?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...