Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I installed a Hybrid Front Mount intercooler and had to remove a piece of the factory intercooler plumbing where the hose from my bleed valve was connected.

where can I plumb this line into now? as the new hybrid kit has no where to plumb it to i have heard you can connect it to the carbon cannister line does this work?

Are you talking about the Blow off valve?  Your Bleed valve should be located between the actuator and the turbo........not on your intercooler plumbing
yes i know but on a r33 there is a t piece which goes to the intercooler piping as well as actuator and the turbo. does anyone know where i can plumb the bleed valve?

hey i have installed this kit on my skyline and i went to autobarn and got a screw in brass fitting. once you screw it in it has the nipple on it like the factory piping to put the pipe onto.

see images

also see my gallery for install pics.

yeah i bought the fitting for $4 or so, drilled a hole a little smaller than i needed then got the right size tap and tapped the hole then screwed in the fiting with a little plumbers tape. it works a treat and has done for almost 10 months now.

i have played a little also and found that a restrictor in this pipe as in the factory one shown makes the power seem to come on better when used with a manual boost controller as before it would spike and cause the ignition timing to retard.

just an idea, seemed to work on my car anyway?

Ive just tee'd mine into the fuel pressure reg line for the moment, its what it says to do in the Trust VSPL intercooler kit instructions.

Anyone who has bought an AVCR will have a spare metal nipple which is perfect to screw into the intercooler piping after you drill a hole in it.

Has thread and is the perfect size for it.

I plann on doing this the next time i take the cooler piping off, as i want the shortest hose possible from the piping to boost controller

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...