Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, I have had a good read of the 7 pages of thread on this topic as my R33 is missfiring between 4000-5000 rpm, I checked the spark plugs and re gapped them down from 1.1 to 0.8 to begin with, I then pulled the coil packs out and checked them for fine carcks- none visible, also no visible grime on the copper-all clean(i think as i only did a quick check)my boost is set at 13, do u think my standard ecu is shitting its self? or there is a cracks in the coil pack? The car goes hard until 4000rpm and sorta hits a dead spot until 5000rpm and will have a missfire, the "flat spot/missfire is not all the time but mostly when laying the foot down, so go back and thouroughly check coil packs and clean the copper in them? thoughts would be appreciated, cheers Damo. p.s I am just getting ready toput a bosch 040 fuel pump and a regulator in then put my pwr fc in and have it tuned am i better off to just say f**** it and buy new coilpacks any way??

before i went mucking around again with the coil packs again i turned down the boost to 10 psi all was ok until i planted it and resulted in smaller missfire at 3000rpm cleared at 4000rpm--gotta be the coilpacks im thinkin

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey Damo

the cracks aren't always visible on the coil packs.

Just slap heaps of Araldyte as shown in the dodgy pic on the first post on all of them, it will only do good...

also, clean the contacts where the spring sits with some carby cleaner, even if it looks clean.

Wind your boost back up where it was, and give us a status report when your done.

I'm guessing the flat spot will remain - that's a problem with the tune on the stock ECU, but the misfire should go.

Hey Damo

the cracks aren't always visible on the coil packs.

Just slap heaps of Araldyte as shown in the dodgy pic on the first post on all of them, it will only do good...

also, clean the contacts where the spring sits with some carby cleaner, even if it looks clean.

Wind your boost back up where it was, and give us a status report when your done.

I'm guessing the flat spot will remain - that's a problem with the tune on the stock ECU, but the misfire should go.

thanks for the info man, but if im going to keep going through with mods (which i am) the coil packs are going to need to be replaced anyways eh?

Edited by madaz R33
thanks for the info man, but if im going to keep going through with mods (which i am) the coil packs are going to need to be replaced anyways eh?

only if there is internal damage to the coil itself, which is pretty unlikely.

i have spoken to 2 guys with 300rwkw monsters with the standard coils covered in araldyte, they have no issues.

it costs virtually nothing, so it's much wiser to give it a try rather than spending $600 without trying this first.

  • 2 weeks later...

went down to the local store and picked up the sellys Epoxy resin 5 minute stuff (full streangh 12-24hrs) and noticed it had a max tep of 93 deg looked over at the same brand in another tube and it states for plastic welding applications with a 148 deg max temp. it did state it could not be used with polypropylene or polyethylene. so im holding off until i get someone else's thoughts cheers, what is the operating temp of the coil packs???

well, I generally mean in 2nd. you know, sometime you'll just floor it all the way through to redline to get to 100. I only do this to make sure the car is running ok. for quite a while when doing this the car has felt a bit weak. the hesitation is really annoying. just cant work out the exact problem. The majority of it has developed since i installed an FMIC tho

i had hesitation with my FMIC, i had a few problems :thumbsup: air line melt shut and cause boost spiking also check that u dont have any air leaks, and you have the correct plugs (.8 gap) and the plugs are the right heat range.

  • 8 months later...
  • 6 months later...

Hi Guys

just did the taping up thing on my CoilPacks in my R33 GTS-t today.

used some self algamating tape in the whole coil apart from the wiring connection and where the spark plug goes in.

so far the car is running much smoother no popping and banging 4/5.5Krpm.

it even seems to be using less fuel.

is this at all possible or am i imagineing this?????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...