Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, just about to recieve my R33 and going to do the usual and change every fluid on the car, including gbox and diff oils.

Whats the best pick for this application? I used to get very good results with Mobil 1 gearbox oil on the WRX, but gearboxes can be finnicky and some will work better with some oils.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Conrad

Spoke to the redline bloke at the Auto Salon on the weekend about this exact issue.

He told me to get the Redline Lightweight Shockproof gearbox and diff oil. Now it's not cheap, like $113 ish for the gallon you are going to require but I've heard lots of good things about it. My oil is getting changed tomorrow for it so i'll let you know if I notice a difference

Cheers

I can't speak more highly of a product than Redline "Shockproof". It's impressive to say the least! I use Redline in the diff & g/box.

This site gives a price guide for Redline products - http://www.gearbox-racing.com/

You need a 1US gallon (3.785L) container for the g/box, & should get @ least 2 diff fluid cx from another 1US Gallon container. It's not cheap but it works very very well.

Redline seems to do a good job with worn syncros. A mates GTR had syncro crunchies and the redline stuff sorted it right out.

If you change your oil (diff and gearbox) on a regular basis you probably will never need to run redline stuff. If you do just remember it doesn't last forever and that goes double if you give you car shtick.

I change my oil (diff & gear every 10-15,000km) I would change it straight after a burnout session (tyre popper) or run at the drags or track though.

Will you find little tiny metal fillings ? yes.

Are metal fillings good for lubrication? no.

Can I go swimming after consuming 2L of Redline shockproof oil? yes you should do it as a matter of courtesy.

Yeah likewise Rev, I change my diff & g/box oil regularly too, in fact given the # of oil cx's to k's traveled it works out to probably every 5k or less!

bugger... i get crunchies into second when the car is cold as well. Does that mean my synchro's are ****ed?

a mate of mine said his gear box was really notchy, and he just had redline shockproof put into his gearbox and he said it made a huge difference. It's got smooth changes now.

I'll be paying the $110+ for this to go in when i change my clutch soon.

--

Andrew

Originally posted by GiJOr33

bugger... i get crunchies into second when the car is cold as well. Does that mean my synchro's are ****ed?

a mate of mine said his gear box was really notchy, and he just had redline shockproof put into his gearbox and he said it made a huge difference. It's got smooth changes now.

I'll be paying the $110+ for this to go in when i change my clutch soon.

--  

Andrew

If the gearbox is cold you should not attempt to shift quickly at high rpms. If it shifts ok when warm don't be too concerned.

There are many different kinds of metal found in the gearbox/diff and they all heat up and expand at different rates. This means that flogging your car whilst warming up from cold will increase the wear and this goes double for the syncros and LSD clutch packs.

nah... i definantly don't flog it when it's warming up... i shift under 2500rpm... and sometimes if it's downhill i'll shift from 1st to 3rd :)

I'm up for a new clutch soon so i'll chuck in some Redline Shockproof trans oil.

I had the crunchies in my gearbox, mostly 1st -> 2nd and 4th -> 5th but occasionally on any gear shift. I put in some Heavy Weight Shockproof oil and all crunching has disappeared, except for 1st -> 2nd when it's cold. No other gears crunch when cold, and when warm even 1st -> 2nd is fine.

I contemplated putting some Lightweight Shockproof Oil in the diff but I would have had to spend the same again (~$100) with LOTS of oil left over and there would be no tangible benefit because the diff never crunches :) So I just put in some LSD-grade diff oil from GP Auto, cost about $20.

I wouldn't say there's no point in putting the Shockproof oil in a new or rebuilt gearbox. The point of it isn't to stop crunching, it's to protect the gears and stop them smashing into each other. If you use it from the very start your gearbox will probably last twice as long. Stopping the crunches on a worn box is just one of the nicer side effects.

When you consider the price of even a reconditioned box, an extra $100 is not much. I will be using it from now on whenever I have to change the box oil.

NIZ30, I have no idea. I mail ordered mine from someplace in Melbourne. What's wrong with mail order out of interest? They did dick me around for a day or 2 because they didn't realise they were out of stock before I placed the order, but it still arrived before the weekend via Express Post (ordered Monday) which is the soonest I was able to put it in anyway.

Try COVENTRY AUTOPARTS in Geebung ph 07 38658133 i think there the only place that sells it in queensland put some light weight shockproof in my GTR's new box was going to put the heavy in but i heard its not recommened for street cars apparantly stops the syncros from working and its a bitch to put in as it is so thick!

Gtr13, the heavy weight oil is good if your gearbox is a little old and crunches a bit. For a new or reconditioned box the lightweight would be better. But for a worn box or maybe a competition/racing box, the heavy is better because it HELPS the synchros work better (ie less crunching), it doesn't hinder them.

And it's not physically much thicker than normal gearbox oil, no easier or harder to put in than any other type. I got a mechanic to do mine anyway so it made no difference to me how difficult it was. I've changed tranny oil in the past and always ended up getting it all over myself. That stuff stinks! I was happy to pay someone to avoid having to smell like that for weeks.

JimX this is a quote from sean morris from motorex in the states

"The guys from Redline say that it (shockproof heavy gear oil)should not be used in a street tranny as it can cause the synchros not to work properly" but he also went on to say that he uses it in big bird R33 GTR's stock tranny and has had no drama's yet . I think your right its better off in competion type boxes with straight cut gears where syncros arn't used and boxes that are crunching quite badly. As for the thickness i havn't seen the heavy but the lightweight oil seemed to be quite thick!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...