Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as some of you may or may not know, i own a aus spec r31 with a rb25det and 5 speed.

its an excellent performing car for the mods it has, and the amount its cost me.

so far has

cooler with custom end tanks to negate the need for a pipe over the radiator

3 inch from turbo back exhaust

500hp fuel pump

it will be getting a clutch soon enough and an lsd.

from there ive always wanted to go bigger turbo and ecu.

However, once you begin modding cars you realise it isnt going to happen as quick as that-

so my question is, what other things can be done to improve performance without having to go ecu turbo. im thinking along the lines of porting manifolds etc, im not looking for massive gains, but anything would be an improvement. Gotta keep up with the jones's you know :cheers:

as a benchmark , it did a 15.0 @ 98mph , with 2.9 60 foot times, due to me not wanting to destroy the stock 31 clutch in the car, this was before any mods, ie no cooler or zorst, and a misfire under hard load.. which was found to be a coil. goes alot harder now , turning 2nd gear with a slipping clutch on acceleration. and beat a car that had ran 107mph 3 weeks ago.

I look forward to any suggestions that you may have, as im keen to see how far this thing can go before going to bigger and better things.

Tom

How about changing the diff ratio to something a bit lower, like 4.8:1? Aerodynamic mods too? But if you put a dollar to kw value on mods, you can't beat the "common" mods of turbo + ECU.. and pretty much any large engine changes you make is going to need an altered management system.

If your interested in doing head work you could clean up the ports a bit, and maybe port match the manifolds to the head etc. Then look into cams, but they are a bit pricey :cheers:

Also, if you doing yourclutch soon, look into a light weight flywheel, might as well do it while you've got the box out ;)

On that subject, could also look into reducing the rotational mass of things (like the fly wheel) like pullies. Maybe think about ditching the clutch fan for an electric one.

Don't forget that sometimes a good service can yeld good results too - change the oil in the gearbox and diff, good alighnment etc...

J

Also try a set of pineapples to help lower that 60ft time. $120 and easy to fit, and they do help, even with my launch unfriendly setup. Cheaper than new coilovers too.

only reason the 60 foots where shocking, was because i was driving of line like a set of traffic lights to save the clutch

flywheel was certainly going to be done at time of clutch

pullies and stuff like that was something i didnt think of though

maybe even a cold air induction setup, or partioning off the pod

brains starting to tick now :D

First thing.. Get your self a nice tight LSD with a ratio of 4.11:1 (R33) 4.36:1 (R33) & a decent clutch.

It will make a big difference to response and acceleration.

What kind of speeds are you getting out of your gears at 7000rpm?

You said cooler.. Is that a stock IC as per your sig?

Possibly a cheap SAFC ($250-300) + Tune $200.

You can always sell the SAFC later on down the track without much $$ loss.

Pick up a decent amount of fuel economy also, be sure to get it tuned for light and WOT throttle openings.

Some tuners may only tune for WOT thinking all you are interested in is a final power figure. An Extra 100km's to a tank of juice wont go a stray.

Your ET indicates there's definately potential providing you get those damn 60's down. :D

was a standard cooler, now is a custom garrett one, sig not updated due to no more power runs since that :D

diff at the moment is a freaking pintara 4.11 single legger

speeds at 7000rpm

1st = 60

2nd = 100

3rd ... over speed limit :D

really interested to see what someone like sydney kid thinks in regards to this. ive always like to think outside the sqaure. i could just do ecu manifold turbo and fuel and be done, but if i can do a 12 with stock turbo id be very impressed.

If you want to see 12's on the cheapish..

PowerFC

Injectors (Don't skimp on these or you will be rebuilding)

Z32 AFM

An internal gate 450-500hp turbo (GCG or Unique autosports type turbo)

You should have some where around 250rwkw.

If you want to push the turbo a little more and keep the response of the smaller turbo I would look at a set of mild cams, thicker headgasket and a little more boost. You may find your self hitting 270-280rwkw.

Then look towards the suspension setup and tyres.

12's on the stock turbo is pushing it + the turbos reliability will be limited.

Its a Silvia (1220kg's). Less weight = less power required to haul arse down the 1/4.

Unfortunately the R31 is one of the heavier skylines weighing in with a kerb weight of 1440kg's.

It 'could' be done but the turbo won't last long as you will have to lean on it hard.

Depends what you want? Reliability or a tow home after a night out.

To have the same power to weight as a S14 has at 200rwkwk you will need around 240rwkw.

With you get the clutch fixed, DEFINENTLY get a super light weight flywheel.

Awesome difference.

$500 from Japan (I got mine from www.JapaneseImportParts.com) and it's probably good for 0.4 over the quarter. (Reference Rev210)

BASS OUT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...