Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But adam32 insists that I need a AFC to make it into the 13's because I dont have enough power. From the way I read mosts of the posts here it seems power is more important than traction and that you must have more power in order to run a good 1/4 mile time. The car is definately making the speed down the track, the terminal speed shows this. Its just a matter of getting the traction initially.

Rob

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got Boost has an R32

its lighter, so should be faster in that respect with the same mods as an R33.

13.7 i doubt you'll get with your current mods even with decent road tyres slicks maybe.

but a 13.9x is not impossible just look at mine and MrSnub times both with filter, 10psi and cat back zorst.

Exactly. But everyone is telling me a 13.xx pass is impossible on my current level of power. I *NEED* a AFC..... BS. So again the issue is re-enforced, you can get into the 13's with just exhaust, pod and boost, you need good clutch and wider tyres than stock and possibly some more suspension stuff. Rang ross @ auto clutch this morning but he's away till the 28th.

Rob

Originally posted by rob77

with that terminal speed I should be doing a mid 13-high 13 (say 13.7, which my mate did on a simular terminal speed in his 180sx).  

I'd say it would pull a 13.7 quite easily.  

Rob

No wrong again your memory seems off a little.

We told you that a mid 13 to 13.7(see your claim above) was highly unlikely with your setup as no one else has managed those figures without more mods than you have.

There is a BIG difference between 13.xx(13.999) and a 13.7

Now please shutup about it and go do a 13.5 - 13.7 before posting anything again on this thread.

Then we'll all happily FOAD for you

Rob,

if you going to pay for the labour to fit the clutch then maybe hold off and get a light flywheel at the same time too, you won't regret it. The best unit is the ogura chrome molly 4.8kgs! costs about $600 + freight, the stronger chrome molly won't scratch up as bad with the puck style clutch ,as much as the stock one will.

I agree that the S-AFC is un-nessesary to achieve the 13, you clearly have enough power, the right tyres and clutch will see you there since you have the KCA349 already.

A tallish profile of tyre will suit best (55-60 series), don't go the 40 series they have too little side wall flex. Having said that street tyres aren't designed to flex/wrinkle the side walls anyway, so anyone know of a good brand for this?

ROFLMAO

you guys crack me up made very funny reading

dont forget us 32 driver still are lower on cubes than 33's

most skylines ive seen at drags on street rubber all suffer from traction 1st and 2nd. a bit of trail and error gettin it off the line

and the times will drop. fittin those pineapples definetly helped my car with changin the pinion angle.and im still only runnin 205 nankang crap tyres.at 20psi when racing.ive got 16x8 with 225's for next time

Originally posted by rob77

Exactly. But everyone is telling me a 13.xx pass is impossible on my current level of power. I *NEED* a AFC..... BS. So again the issue is re-enforced, you can get into the 13's with just exhaust, pod and boost, you need good clutch and wider tyres than stock and possibly some more suspension stuff. Rang ross @ auto clutch this morning but he's away till the 28th.  

Rob

Rob i can def reccomend ross, payed eight hundred something for a nine puck with a 2500p plate all fitted. Best thing i have ever done to my car(so far) have fun:bonk:

rob77: haha so many different stories going around.

this is the version i heard.

he's gone under, owe's lots of money to people and because speedworks were renting off wheels world.. they have a month to move and are apparently moving to Osbourne Park.

Shaun

this is a KCA349 Diff Lock kit right ??

Does this LOCK the diff completely ? I thought all lines were LSD anyway, why would you want to lock it ?

does this particular kit cause wheel-skipping around tight corners ? (i love that sound)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...