Jump to content
SAU Community

Sandown Driver Training - 17th October.

Snowman

By Snowman,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

RTFGTR Proficient

RTFGTR

Posted
Posted
Yes, "registerable" is OK. The main problem at Sandown is noise upsetting the locals, so as long as the car meets noise restrictions (75dB(A) at 30 metres drive-by), then it will likely be OK.

So it looks like were all racing (even though it's a track day) I can't wait. All I have done in my car so far is drive it around the block a few times. Need two things at the moment to make me happy as Larry... and none of them involve a woman... sad when you get you get life’s priorities in order!

PS: I just got my GTR... I hope it will wear off soon :rofl:

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

INASNT Grand Master

INASNT

Posted
Posted
So it looks like were all racing (even though it's a track day) I can't wait. All I have done in my car so far is drive it around the block a few times. Need two things at the moment to make me happy as Larry... and none of them involve a woman... sad when you get you get life’s priorities in order!

PS: I just got my GTR... I hope it will wear off soon :rofl:

Have you run ur car on the dyno as yet to check everything and see what power it is making?

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted
Out of interest who says what is too fast on the day. Obviously if your spinning and heading for the dirt then thats too far, but if you are keeping it on the black stuff?

I'm guessing what you're asking is what is the definition of "5.7 Vehicles are to be kept to less han competition speed." I think the officials (clerk of course, flag marshalls) will have a word to you if you are seen to be driving beyond your limits, or endangering other drivers.

One rule that's stated clearly is "NO OVERTAKING WILL BE PERMITTED IN CORNERS AT ANY TIME". Laps aren't being timed anyway... but doesn't mean u cant bring your own stop watch :) or if you wanna go Hi-tech, use an infrared lap-timer :(

I'm excited. :D

RTFGTR Proficient

RTFGTR

Posted
Posted
Have you run ur car on the dyno as yet to check everything and see what power it is making?

Not yet. I was planing on getting a tune done last Thursady but that turned to shit like every other plan I had for the car so far. It's just has a standard CAT put in and will probably only do a tune after I swap for a high flow or "so called" high flow.

No Idea at all but would like to think around the 280 - 300rwkw mark???

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
I'm guessing what you're asking is what is the definition of "5.7 Vehicles are to be kept to less  han competition speed." I think the officials (clerk of course, flag marshalls) will have a word to you if you are seen to be driving beyond your limits, or endangering other drivers.  

Thats all good and well, but does that mean if you have a GT3 Porsche you wont be allowed to go any quicker then 1:35s on the day...or as long as you are keeping the thing straight you will be right to punch out 1:25s:confused:

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted
Thats all good and well, but does that mean if you have a GT3 Porsche you wont be allowed to go any quicker then 1:35s on the day...or as long as you are keeping the thing straight you will be right to punch out 1:25s:confused:

Short answer: I dont know :(

Try ringing NDSOC... ask for clarification. I'm sure they will run through everything in the compulsory driver briefing anyway.

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

Hope it's not wet on the day as I found out my Simex tyres are totally shit useless in the wet. Can't even get traction at 30-40k/h... found out embarrasingly tonight... won't be appropriate for my gts-t oversteering left and right on the track... especially when this is suppose to be a track training day, not a drift training day.

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted
this is suppose to be a track training day

Exactly.... no one will be pushing you to go hard. It's not about how fast you can go, but more about driving techinques on the track, learning how to take the best line through corners, and getting a feel for being on the track. You will be fine.

:)

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I expect it will be a totally subjective decision of the Clerk of Course &/or Stewards. Basically, if you are acting like a tool, then you will be spoken to. If you don't heed that warning, you will be asked to pack up and take your attitude somewhere else.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

There's nothing to stop people going 'fast', but there will be a lot of cars running at different speeds on the track at the same time, plus drivers with vastly differing experience and it really is a question of common sense. After all it's meant to be a driver training day as well as a fun day and not getting into 'serious' racing/practice.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I can guarantee you, you will get HEAPS of track time.

At the Maseratti day, you might get 12 laps for your $125. At this day, you will get that many laps in your first session! And for only $85. And you get instruction thrown in.

So come on down, you can simply roll up on Sunday morning and enter then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...