Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Im new to these forums, as i'm currently interested in gettin an R32 4 door GTS-t through the 15 year old import scheme. I have been looking around for a while now, and Yahoo Motorsport here in adelaide seems to have some pretty cheap cars. My question is has anyone from here imported through him, or bought a car from him? I have spoken quickly to him on the phone and he seemed a little short of time for a prospective customer, but i can't ignore the prices of the cars he imports. For example i was hoping to get a 4 door GTS-t with around 100,000k's for about $8-9k complied. Now most importers are charging that before compliance, whereas Yahoo are anywhere from 5-7k uncomplied (plus 1k for compliance). What are peoples opinions?

Thanks

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51880-r32-from-yahoo-motorsport/
Share on other sites

Im not flaming the guy, or saying anything against him.

Do check however....Rust on the cars. Look EVERYWHERE. Ask him where he sources his cars from in Japan, (location), and do some research...

Cheaper cars arn't always cheap for a reason. Go see him in person, people are more helpful when you speak to them face to face.

He is known in the import scene...im sure there is info on here (SAU) and NissanSilvia.com

Do some RESEARCH....it always helps.

Thanks for the info Bl4cK32. You say about which area of japan the car comes from which makes good sense, but what are some of the areas that cars are prone for rust from in Japan? if you could give me some names would be good. I presume its costal areas that are the biggest problem, but then again, every australian city is on the coast, so one would presume cars here are a problem?!?

Just one other question i have, is about the difference in performance from the auto to the manual. The cars have 160kw, and only 260Nm of torque. I currently have an EF Falcon which has same kw, but torque is 100Nm higher. I know the skylines are a lighter car, but surely the lack of torque would have to make a difference?!?

With basic mods such as new cold air feed to factory air box, 3" cat back exhaust, what sort of rwkw would i be looking at?

Thanks for the answers to all my questions

Lee

Ask him which area, then find out about that place. Or just check the car over completely.

As for the lack of torque...the rb20 is a 2Lt motor compared to the EF (4.1Lt?)....off boos performance sucks after driving the rb20 around....do a test drive and make sure you can live with the power spread...if your going to use the 4 door as a people mover, make sure your happy with it...mine pulled well with 4 people in the car with the rb20...off boost sucked a little...my 2c

I reckon there was a thread on here last week about a guy actually looking at that car, from Yahoo. He had paid a deposit and everything, and took it for a drive and it was making all sorts of weird noises, so he told him that he wants his deposit back, so he was refunded his deposit minus $100 or something

as Bl4cK32 says, get it checked, even go as far a to take it to a workshop and pay for them to check it just to be sure

Cheap cars are always cheap for a reason

hrmmm, well after reading that story, i might just be looking locally, rather than importing. seems a little dodgy to me the whole importing thing. Can't say i would like to buy a car having never driven it. Even if its cheaper, still doesnt seem worth the worry and hassle

hes not dodgy AT ALL....i went out there and was talking to him for about anhour...he basically said he doent no what condition the car is in till it gets to aus and that its up to the buyer to check the car over completely before they buy it so they no what there getting and they dont come back later and accuse him of selling you a lemon.....whenever you buy a second hand car its up to YOU to check it over b4 you buy it.....and if you dont like it you get all your deposit back minus $100...whats shonk about that???

  • 2 weeks later...

i bought a 31 off him ages ago, the cars are very cheap.. You can't think about a car for too long or it will sell.. If your interested in a car then get it! If the guy that beat me to that black supra twin turbo aero is reading this... DAMN YOU!

most good import agents can organise a mechanic's report BEFORE you buy the car. especially yahoo cars as you can just contact the seller and literally go "oi, ohio gozaimasu, I wanna check out the car before giving you any money beyatch". Then you ring up one of your mechanics that you have working for you in that perfecture and tell him to check it out. If you're quick you can even do this before the auction ends. The mechanic report might cost ya a hundred bucks, but its well invested money.

he basically said he doent no what condition the car is in till it gets to aus and that its up to the buyer to check the car over completely before they buy it so they no what there getting and they dont come back later and accuse him of selling you a lemon
That's a sad excuse really, and if he got off his arse n did some actual work instead of tellin his potential customers to sign up to prestige and j-spec mailing lists and contact him whenever they see something interesting (which I've heard him say to my mate while he was on the phone). Come on dude, its 2004, its not that hard to hire a mechanic to check out a car on the other side of the world. We don't work on a pigeon courier system still.

Age old problem, how do I buy a 10K car for 7K?

Pay a good price for a good car, and you will be happy. How many people do you know that would sell a 10K car for 7K? mates, mates, mates, mate always knows someone, but in real life it just doesnt happen too often at all.

Good luck with the search.

I THINK places like morpowa etc do full mechcanical and body checks.

I got one done through RAA, cost me $165, and took him over 4 hrs to do.

But better off doin it at places that actually know turbo cars!

Spend the cash to get a check, saves u a hell of a lot of money in the long run!

A friend of mine got a car from yahoo motorsport.. didn't have any problems, however, this guy was pretty much a qualified mechanic and also gave the car a full respray upon arrival. If your really good with cars and mechanics then importing is for you.

I dont think he is dodgy, i think if you dont know anything about fixing cars then, john verban and importing might not be for you.. buy a fully complied one here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...