Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTS-T auto -> manual conversion... (again :p)

Campster123
 Share

Recommended Posts

Campster123 Explorer

Campster123

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I realise this has kinda be covered a few times but I'm after a few more specifics if possible.

Basically I'm currently seeking an r32 gts-t. I'm prolly going to go for a 4-door (bit of a bonus is that you can find them a bit cheaper typically) and was wanting to go for a manual. BUT looking around the place auto's tend to go for a fair bit cheaper (~$3000) compared to an equivalent manual. So I'm possibly leaning towards an auto atm.

I can see some up sides to autos - perfect for city driving, keep decent performance in a straight line and cheaper to repair. BUT, then you miss out on the total control a manual offers, the better efficiency, the ease of modding and the better circuit performance...

But if I can get a auto for $3000 less than a similar I'd probably do it. And in all honesty I'd prolly be fine with driving it for a while, but I know down the track I'd get the itch for a manual so I'm looking at conversion options.

Roughly how much does it cost for an auto -> manual conversion on one of these cars (if we tend to agree less than $3000 then I'm pretty set on an auto!).

Also, and the main reason I started another one of these threads - is there any one in Adelaide that would do it that you guys reccomend and that I could talk to about it?!?!

Cheers,

Adam

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Well it should cost you..

~$600 for decent condition R32 manual gearbox

~$400 for a clutch kit

~$50 for a manual flywheel

~maybe $100 for clutch slave + master cylinders

~maybe $100 for manual tailshaft

~pedals + misc: $100

Total: ~$1350 + labour (either DIY if you are proficient or a few hundred for somebody else to do it)

If you can pickup a manual halfcut for $2500 and flog off the engine and brakes to somebody for $1200 thats one way to get everything you need at a good price :D

StuiE Rising Star

StuiE

Posted
Posted

I'm converting my R31 to manual soon, so far I've got:

RB30 gearbox $660 (ripoff, but couldn't find another rb30 or 20 box), then another $60 for a gearstick for it :-|

Tailshaft $60

Clutch/pressure plate/flywheel/crossmember/pedals/hydraulics $100 (good deal :))

I know of an R31 in Adelaide that got manual converted by Fours n More or something..not sure of the cost though.

You would probably find that autos have been driven more 'sedately' than manuals, so that's a plus.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
RB30 gearbox $660

err.. yeah, i sold a few months back a perfectly good rb30 manual box for $170...

spend the 1350+ on the automatic box getting a stall converter, shift kit, new bands/clutches and watch the manual equivelant in your rear mirror

ba... autos are boring after a while.. trust me, I've had both :) Just change the diff for same results. You'll find most of the extra acceleration in an auto is the better ratios.

if your really set on a manual, then buy a manual

Not if you can find a very good condition car, that just happens to be auto. Autos are a few $k cheaper on average, so why should the gearing type be a concern? Manuals have better control on both the twisties, and the track as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...