Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, all finalised today.

Date: 23/10/2004

Time: 9am till afternoon

Venue: Protek - 273 Dundas Street, Preston (will get the number tomorrow as i forgot)

Price: $40 This will drop if we get more than 25 cars.

This is a 4WD DYNO - Perfect for GTR Owners to pit against the RWD counterparts

Ok, this is going to be very simple. This will not run like other SAU-Vic Dyno Days.

There is a new process due to people not backing up thier keyboards and showing to these events.

Thus causing dyno operators to be out of pocket for thier time.

If you wish to run, you must Pay in Advance, no refunds will be given out if you "sleep in".

Might sound harsh, but its only fair to Protek, and other people who can stick to a time.

I will have a spreadsheet of timeslots from 9am onwards, in 20 mins blocks.

* All payments required by the 16th Oct

* First to pay, gets to pick thier preferred time

* There is ample time to pay, I think there is:

1) One general meeting.

2) The Warburton cruise.

3) I'll put my account details up when i know what they for EFT's.

* I can just allocate you a time if you want to specify a few hours range :)

More details to come in the next two days.

Any rubbish posts will be deleted, and warnings dealt out if you whore my thread :D

-ash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52091-23rd-oct-dyno-day-protek/
Share on other sites

Great to see the dyno day is finalised!!!!

With that said I'm definetly in!!!!

People, remember this is a 4wd dyno, so you guys out there with GTR's, there is no excuse for not coming along!!!!!

Oh by the way, Protek Automotive 273 Dundas Street Preston PH. 94843117....

I'm in, never been to a dyno day (never had my car on a dyno...yet) Getting a tune on Thursay. Should be good to see the discrepancy if any between dynos. I will make payment on the cruse. Does that mean I get to select a time now? If so I will take 11am'ish :mad:

ash, i can transfer money as soon as you give details but my only issue is that i have cricket that afternoon so would prefer an early time (cricket starts at 12:30pm) if that is ok..? like 9:30-10:00 or so... if this can be arranged then i'm a definate... you can have my balls as insurance :) (my girlfriend has them at the moment just go see her)

since the last dyno day i've fixed my pinging, added 3" exhaust and rechipped ECU so should be interesting...

thanks again ash!

Warren.

Try putting it in the normal Vic section for a while (even though it does not belong, I'm sure more ppl will look at the thread). I never used to look at the events section (just habbit I suppose)

Remove reply if required.

Would they be willing to give the SAFC a quick tweak, should it require it? Wasn't the next dyno day suppose to be at ICE?

not really 20 min per car has been allocated.

Thats enough time to get them on, off, strapped and have a few runs etc.

If you want to buy two slots, you might be able to have some tuning time as it takes longer. But then you'd have to pay for Dom to tune it if he wants to.

So its unlikely but i can ask.

And the next dyno day was never "going" to be @ ICE.

There was discussions, but its not a good time for the at present and thats fine.

Maybe later this year or next.

Ash, is this 'members only'?  

if you are lacking numbers my mate with a TX5 turbo might be very interested and would pay in advance also. i'm assuming 4WD dyno's can do FWD cars?

This is not SAU specific. Just an SAU hosted event.

That said, priority goes to Skylines.

Seeing as though we are struggling for cars, due to a dyno day not too long ago anyhow, its open to anyone.

We need another 5-10 cars before this will go ahead.

-ash

i recently went to a dyno day there. Personally i'm not attacking the business but they didn't seem that professional, i.e the cars didn't have ANY play on the dyno which if you know a thing or two about strapping the car down, it SHOULD have some play. The readings were kind of higher than most dynos other people had been on and also half the cars they couldnt run due to problems with the wheels slipping on down gearing which I believe was due to teh way the cars were strapped down.

The WRX club also had a few problems/higher readings there if you check out their forums as well as the 300 club.

Hope you guys don't cop the same stuff and it turns out to be a good day.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...