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Hiya all. I've got a 97 rs4 auto putting 330hp at all fours (without NOS). t04b, 3" exhaust, stainless manifold, fmic, Greddy plenum, 90mm throttle body, 700cc injectors, adaptronic computer oh yeah it's auto too. Haven't put it on the dyno since getting Nos, But 100hp shot spun all fours up the street :):):D !

jesus h christ you better post up a video of that just to prove your not having a lend of us,

ps start a new thread and tell us how a adaptronic runs your auto and post photos in photos thread, by the way welcome to the club.

Hi guys. I'm not sure how to start a new thread. I forgot to say its a stock rb25det aswell. The adaptronic runs everything fine. Anthony from Kaizen Garage 0415 185 815 Brisbane did the install for the computer. he got the auto running with it aswell. Lochlan 999 automotive Brisbane did the tune. 18psi.

I'll have photos and dyno sheet up for you guys soon. I just want to get a good 1/4 mile time first. It's run a 13.8sec so far but there's still more in it yet!

  • 4 months later...

well its been a while but she is finally tuned. mods are full 3inch exhaust with highflow cat ,gcg highflow turbo, nistune piggyback, splitfire coils, cheap monsa ebay fmic, cheap electronic boost controller running 15 psi and z32 afm..

302hp at the rear wheels

not shure what that would equate to at all fours?

post-32337-1242115371_thumb.jpg

post-32337-1242115933_thumb.jpg

Edited by jippa

Good work! Have you got a AWD auto or 2wd manual? I take it you have a S2 (since you have a nistune chip). That figure would be very roughly equivalent to 200AWKW - a solid result but I would have hoped for more with your set up. Were your injectors approaching 100% duty cycle?

I have a GCG turbo (S1 so some stuffing around adding another ecu to enable it to be chipped) and expect around 200AWKW but I want to get the most out of the GCG turbo so am going to get 550 cc injectors to try to reach my goal of 220 - 230 AWKW - although anything on the right side of 200AWKW will make it pretty fast as you have no doubt found. Will be interested in your 1/4 mile time.

awd auto. the injectors are getting close to max duty.

i went for a mild tune as i dont want to destroy my engine and its my daily driver so still want some sort of economy. im also geting over pouring money into it which i wont be getting back.

so far im close to 5k spent on mods

awd auto. the injectors are getting close to max duty.

i went for a mild tune as i dont want to destroy my engine and its my daily driver so still want some sort of economy. im also geting over pouring money into it which i wont be getting back.

so far im close to 5k spent on mods

No offence intended mate. . . But that all haha :whistling:. You had it long ? Nice dyno result though :D

No offence intended mate. . . But that all haha :P. You had it long ? Nice dyno result though :D

close to a year..

quater mile time was a 14.36 at 100.22 mph at 15 psi

she was misfiring quite badly so with a new set of plugs and slightly gaped down might make it into the 13s

I just realised I haven't posted in here

260RS

Vipec ECU running 13psi and ~11.6:1 up in the revs

3" Apexi front pipes, 5" cat, 3.5" cat back

263hp (196kw) at all 4. I haven't had a chance to take it to the drags yet. Would love to know what it'll do.

Itching to go the next step with new turbos, injectors, fuel pump and clutch, but we're building a house, so all mods are off :(

post-9210-1242347390_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

I just had my stagea dynoed last week

The mods are:

3in exhaust

Hybrid FMIC

random highflow turbo

SAFC

RWD conversion

Stage 2 MV shift kit

Ended up with 182rwkw @ 13psi

It seems to have horrible midrange on the dyno though. AFR's are ok so I don't know what is causing it. The thing is on fullboost at about 2800 on the street so it doesn't seem lag related.

We did the dyno runs in 3rd gear with the 'red plug' detached in the engine bay auto loom. Perhaps the torque convertor doesn't like this?

How are other people running their Autos on the dyno to stop kickdown? 2nd gear maybe?

th_anthony_its25t.jpg

I just had my stagea dynoed last week

The mods are:

3in exhaust

Hybrid FMIC

random highflow turbo

SAFC

RWD conversion

Stage 2 MV shift kit

Ended up with 182rwkw @ 13psi

It seems to have horrible midrange on the dyno though. AFR's are ok so I don't know what is causing it. The thing is on fullboost at about 2800 on the street so it doesn't seem lag related.

We did the dyno runs in 3rd gear with the 'red plug' detached in the engine bay auto loom. Perhaps the torque convertor doesn't like this?

How are other people running their Autos on the dyno to stop kickdown? 2nd gear maybe?

th_anthony_its25t.jpg

Yep put it in 2nd gear and put the snow button on (locks out first gear). You need an Apexi SITC so that you can adjust the timing.
I just realised I haven't posted in here

260RS

Vipec ECU running 13psi and ~11.6:1 up in the revs

3" Apexi front pipes, 5" cat, 3.5" cat back

263hp (196kw) at all 4. I haven't had a chance to take it to the drags yet. Would love to know what it'll do.

Itching to go the next step with new turbos, injectors, fuel pump and clutch, but we're building a house, so all mods are off :)

Thats interesting, when i first dynoed my 260 with the exhaust done it made 230rwkw? Now with a bit of work its making 313rwkw, still a few more things to finish off to hopefully see the 330 mark! :banana:

Let me know when you find one, I have been looking for 5 years without success.

Cheers

Gary

I've got a few ideas I'd like to try. I have an R34 GTT auto ECU here that I would like to give a go (with a Nistune board), but i'd prefer to get my hands on an S2 Stag ECU and rewire to suit then Nistune it.

Unfortunately I don't think this has been tried yet

I don't mind hacking my loom a bit. When I bought my car it had a Microtech MT10s in it and the loom was hacked to suit, so its already a bit of a mess.

Thats interesting, when i first dynoed my 260 with the exhaust done it made 230rwkw? Now with a bit of work its making 313rwkw, still a few more things to finish off to hopefully see the 330 mark! :thumbsup:

Yeah, like I said, it's tuned fairly conservatively, since it's our only car and my misses drives it to work every day.

313rwkw is pretty nice :banana: What have you done to it. It must be an absolute blast to drive. One day I'll get there....maybe :)

I've got a few ideas I'd like to try. I have an R34 GTT auto ECU here that I would like to give a go (with a Nistune board), but i'd prefer to get my hands on an S2 Stag ECU and rewire to suit then Nistune it.

Unfortunately I don't think this has been tried yet

I don't mind hacking my loom a bit. When I bought my car it had a Microtech MT10s in it and the loom was hacked to suit, so its already a bit of a mess.

It might be worth PMing FastRotor on here. I believe he is running a Link G4 Plus(?) which is basically a Vipec and has knocked up some electronics to force the Vipec to switch to lower timing map on gear changes.

Way ahead of you on that one. I've been talking to FastRotor (Gary) since I bought the Stagea.

Vipec isn't really in my pricerange though. I will end up doing a remap of some sort I think. I just need to find out what option works best (or find an option that works at all!)

just booked in for my second every appearance on the rollers.... Very interested to see what it will do...

last time it made 155rwkw with splitfires, .8mm gapped plugs, safcII, FMIC and 12psi.

Since then ive done the following power mods:

3" turbo to gutted

Cat to 3 1/4 cat back

SITC

Reinforced intake pipe

Pod/box cold air feed

Any one wanna guess what im going to make?

Yeah, like I said, it's tuned fairly conservatively, since it's our only car and my misses drives it to work every day.

313rwkw is pretty nice :) What have you done to it. It must be an absolute blast to drive. One day I'll get there....maybe :thumbsup:

Hmmm, well its just easier to say i havent done cams or coilpacks, everything else i have done..lol.

And yes its fun to drive, i still love the dazed and confused look on commodore drivers faces when a volvo leaves them for dead! lmao

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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