Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*HKS Graphic Control Computer--(HKS PFC F-CON) and wiring

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=688 ...........$400

*HKS Injection Pulse Monitor (good with the F-Con).

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=729&rsku=0 .........$150

OR BOTH for $500

*Genuine 33 Vspec standard shocks..........$350

*824 pages of photocopied GTR manual..........$30SOLD

*Genuine 32 GTR side skirts (plastic) with spats (or whatever you call them), could use a paint but I guess youd have to if you didn't have a grey car anyhow..........$350Back on the market thanks to tire kicker

*1 orange GTST indicator, leftover stuff from previous car..........$15

*Pair of orange GTR side indicators..........$30

*Prefabricated 1 cubic foot 12" sub box..........$15

*2 x framed pics of Skaifes no. 2 wining bathurst GTR

1 in 34 x 24 cm frame and 1 in 30 x 40 cm frame..........$35 eachSOLD

*Standard GTST BOV..........$15

*Blitz Badge..........$20

*Carrozeria (jap pioneer) 6 stacker and head unit..........$50SOLD

*QLD personalized plates

40RCN, silver on blue..........$1000

GTR44, silver on black..........$470

51CKR, silver on purple..........$650

[email protected]

About the HKS GCC:

The GCC is an electronic tuning component designed to add additional flexibility to the fuel tuning capabilities of the VPC, PFC F-CON or F-CON S. The GCC simply plugs into either the VPC or F-CON harness and allows the user to further adjust the air / fuel ratio at five specific rpm points. Each five points offer an adjustment range of 16% rich to 12% lean, in 2% increments, of the base value. Four different selectable rpm ranges allow maximum rpm level flexibility when tuning the fuel curve. The GCC will interpolate, or average between the rpm points of adjustment to ensure a smooth transition of fuel delivery throughout the RPM band

and the IPM:

The HKS Injection Pulse Monitor, or IPM, is an electronic injector duty cycle monitor and display unit. When tuning a fuel system with an HKS Graphic Control Computer (GCC), VPC, F-CON, AIC III or Super AFR, the IPM is essential for determining the remaining fuel injector capacity. With the supplied wiring harness, the IPM plugs directly into any vehicle equipped with an HKS PFC F-CON (Programmed Fuel Computer) or can be wired directly into the stock ECU harness of any electronically fuel injected application. When used with the PFC F-CON, the IPM will show the difference between the factory specified pulse width vs. that of the HKS F-CON pulse width on its dual level LED display. When used with the stock ECU, two separate injector signals can be displayed on the dual level LED display, either two stock injector signals or one stock injector signal and one signal from an AIC injector. As the injector pulse is increased via fuel controllers, the IPM will display the new injector duty cycle in real-time. In addition to monitoring, the IPM incorporates an audible alarm that can be set to trigger when any pulse width from 50% to 95%, in 5% intervals, is reached

Firstly Ricknismo is a great seller, so enjoy the bump :D

Secondly, Rick do you still have one of the skaiffe GTR pics? If so, I'll take one.

Regards,

Richard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...