Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I just thought, what stops the rear tyre contacting the guard when you lower the car?

Anyone running 9" wide rims (+30 offset I think - R33 GTR rims) have trouble clearing the guards at that height (~350mm) with the standard shocks?

I've heard of rolling the guards/guard pulling etc, but, although it is difficult to make out from this pic:

post-32445-1224767494_thumb.jpg

...there is surely no amount of guard pulling which is going to prevent the tyre from making contact with the guard when the spring compresses, if I just lower it like it is? This is a problem, as my suspension is already higher than standard (~390mm centre to guard front & rear) and I was hoping to go down to ~350mm. But how to do it without the tyre hitting the guard when the spring compresses (or the rear spring seat, for that matter - it's close too @ ~1 inch)?

My guess is that either:

a) I need to run mad camber (erk) or

b) there is a 'dynamic shift' (or however you say it) to mad camber on spring compression. ie. as the spring compresses, negative camber results, thus the top of the tyre tucks safely inside the guard

...any insight would be appreciated! Sorry if this has been answered before... I have had a look through the print version of this thread already (all 29 pages!)

Gday knowledgable folk

I wish to remove 1 degree of negative camber from the rear of my S1 Stagea (currently have 2 deg neg at 350mm wheel centre - guard height)

My choices are;

2 x KCA 347 bushes (not sure if they will get me a full degree)

or

1 x KTA 118 adjustable arms ( http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z310_KTA118.pdf )

Arms ~$300

Any ideas?

richard

btw I think the bushes only give you about ~0.75deg adjustment each... so that's going to be a fair bit short of your target 2mm, even allowing for differences between cars. My S2 is at full (stock) adjustment already, at ~390mm, and I have around 1.5deg negative camber at the rear. I think I will have to go for the adjustable camber arm; at least that way I'm guaranteed to be able to get enough adjustment out of it. I'm pretty sure it uses the same types of joints (bushes) so NVH/longevity should be OK.

btw I think the bushes only give you about ~0.75deg adjustment each... so that's going to be a fair bit short of your target 2mm, even allowing for differences between cars. My S2 is at full (stock) adjustment already, at ~390mm, and I have around 1.5deg negative camber at the rear. I think I will have to go for the adjustable camber arm; at least that way I'm guaranteed to be able to get enough adjustment out of it. I'm pretty sure it uses the same types of joints (bushes) so NVH/longevity should be OK.

Thanks Dave

I have been told that .75deg, is a pretty "optimistic" change so the arms are looking like the best option at this stage

It might be worth dropping your rear shock off at the bottom (with vehicle raised of course) and observing the travel of the wheel through its range of movement. Hopefully your clearance issues turn out to be an illusion

I would second the suggestion to use the bilstein shocks with standard springs (if they clear your wheels) as I have the whiteline springs on the highest circlip groove of the bilsteins and that is what gave me 350mm. In a perfect world I would have chosen a slightly higher setting...........still happy though! :/

richard

  • 4 weeks later...
Gday knowledgable folk

I wish to remove 1 degree of negative camber from the rear of my S1 Stagea (currently have 2 deg neg at 350mm wheel centre - guard height)

My choices are;

2 x KCA 347 bushes (not sure if they will get me a full degree)

or

1 x KTA 118 adjustable arms ( http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z310_KTA118.pdf )

Arms ~$300

Any ideas?

richard

I have just tried to fit the above arms and they hit on the shock(_!_)what an bummer!..............will advise of the part # when the correct ones arrive

richard

I have just tried to fit the above arms and they hit on the shock(_!_)what an bummer!..............will advise of the part # when the correct ones arrive

richard

Thanks Richard, I hope you were able to return/exchange the arms... I am very interested to know which arms will fit stagea as it seems a lot of us series 2 folk are having to make a lot more camber adjustment than the whiteline camber kits can provide, and I don't know of any non-pillow-ball/cheap camber arms which will do it.

edit: what rear shocks are you running?

Edited by DaveB

When I contacted the suspension shop that I purchased the arms off and told them that they didn't fit, Peter (suspension Guru) suggested that I required ones to suit the later model skylines and that he would order some in. I haven't seen any others listed in the whiteline catalogue so perhaps he uses another brand. I will advise when they arrive.

Rear shocks are bilsteins

richard

Ok, I went to pick up the new arms today and they turned out to be the K-mac variety

They look to be well constructed, however I did not go through with the puchase as they have pillow-ball style bushes

I was informed that there are no poly-bush style arms available, that have the clearance required for the stagea

So I departed with a couple of sets of offset bushes (Super Poly Pro $125), and my fingers crossed that they will remove the required amount of neg camber (~1deg)

richard

they are "pillow ball"style. it refers to the rod end where the bolt goes through to mount to the subframe. Bushes are the normal rubber or poly cylinders that the bolt goes through, this one has that steel eye. They get called "spherical joints", "rod ends", "pillow ball"(mainly on strut tops) all mean the same thing.

I wouldn't worry too much, just keep an eye out for noise - as they get dirt in joints they start to clunk - you may need to replace them every 1-2 years. the better quality rod ends last longer due to better manufacturing tolerances and they often come with dust covers

That's not good news... :O Thanks Richard, please let us know how the bushes go; was that $125 for both sides of the car or just one side? Interested to know how much camber they will remove...

$125 for four bushes - both sides........was told wont quite get 1 degree

hmm weird i have generic r33/34 S14/15 rear camber arms for my stagea. RWD though.

The K-mac arms where similar in design to yours, but the Whiteline arms actually surround the shock and the contact point is on the rearward side

richard

  • 1 month later...
btw I think the bushes only give you about ~0.75deg adjustment each... so that's going to be a fair bit short of your target 2mm, even allowing for differences between cars. My S2 is at full (stock) adjustment already, at ~390mm, and I have around 1.5deg negative camber at the rear. I think I will have to go for the adjustable camber arm; at least that way I'm guaranteed to be able to get enough adjustment out of it. I'm pretty sure it uses the same types of joints (bushes) so NVH/longevity should be OK.

Hey mate,

Can you recommend a set of adjustable camber arms for a s1 stagea.

Sorry I haven't found any that aren't "pillow-ball" types. (The problems with pillow-ball types are that they wear quickly and transmit more road noise). If you are willing to put up with this then I guess just searching ebay for 'skyline rear camber arm' or something similar and using a reputable ebay store... that's where I'd start anyway. I have found sets there for ~$150 I think? But I'm not sure I want pillow-ball ones on my heavy wagon... I think they're really just meant for drift 180's and silvias.

Edited by DaveB

Interesting, it says it's for R32-R34, but it doesn't have the bend to clear the rear strut. I'd be very interested to know if this fits though, 'cause I'll get a pair. +/- 15mm adjustment should be enough to cure any rear camber problems :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...