Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Suspension

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

JZZ20 Enthusiast

JZZ20

Posted
Posted
If you have Bilsteins you don't need to change your springs. You can adjust the height by moving the circlip up or down. If you have run out of grooves (only likely if you want an extremely low setting) you can get more grooves machined quite cheaply.

REALLY? You can lower these things by a factory setting?? Sounds great to me :)

Will have to poke my head in there and have a look-see :blink:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 1.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Daleo
Daleo

Not making a judgement against MCA; everyone that I've heard from raves about them, but your comments about BC's just aren't true. I've been using them for more than 6 years now; damping and ride qua

conan7772
conan7772

yep bolts were loose, but you couldn't tell until the car was up on the hoist. put some Brembos on while we were at it. got that one past the wife ..

datmoo
datmoo

These should stiffen things up a bit!

Posted Images

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

can anyone tell me the specs on the springs and shocks in my car

i've had a look on the impul site but found nothing :blush:

can someone also tell me if the springs are stock or aftermarket/thicker?

i'm quite happy with it as it is but i'd like to know where i stand

thanks

post-51118-1268401152_thumb.jpg

post-51118-1268401328_thumb.jpg

post-51118-1268401451_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Ceffy_SA Collaborator

Ceffy_SA

Posted
Posted

Got some R33 rear tein HA coilovers for the rear of my stagea RSFour Auto but the top hats on the struts are very different, i was under the impression that R33 rear sus bolts in with just a few mods to the top hat (shaving the sides off) but this seems incorrect, sorry i wasnt going to go through 40 pages of stuff to find out i had a bit of a scan through it however...

JDM_Spirit Community Regular

JDM_Spirit

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Had a thought earlier this week. I was looking at the fitment of the rear of my car. Thought to my self...

"Lets make it flush... then make the front suit".

So initial thought was SPACERS... but then I got thinking again. Decided to get Adjustable Rear Camber arms for the rear. As much as I love Camber. My wallet cant afford the rubber and really it serves zero purpose on a daily driver.

My last wheel alignment came up as FL 2.6 degrees FR 2.5 degrees RL 3.0 degrees RR 3.0 degrees

So my question is, Along with Camber arms, SHOULD I get Adjustable Toe and Trail/Traction arms?

They're cheap enough out of Japan and it would be alot easier to get a wheel alignment all in one hit.

"Do it once, Do it right".... right? :cool:

I simply just want to give my self the best chance of having all 4 wheels rolling dead straight, not chewing tires nor fuel.

As for the front, I'll get bigger spacers in time. Not sure yet, as the Coilovers have only 6gk springs and they still travel a fair bit. Guard munching is not on my list of things to do. :D

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

you have way too much rear camber for any use, let alone a road car.

use the adjustable arms to get it back to about 1.5o

your existing rear toe arms are already adjustable, they are used from factory to manage toe.

no need for adjustable "traction" arm, it is only used to adjust bump steer for track use, even then most people buy them and then don't set them up properly

JDM_Spirit Community Regular

JDM_Spirit

Posted
Posted
you have way too much rear camber for any use, let alone a road car.

use the adjustable arms to get it back to about 1.5o

your existing rear toe arms are already adjustable, they are used from factory to manage toe.

no need for adjustable "traction" arm, it is only used to adjust bump steer for track use, even then most people buy them and then don't set them up properly

Yeah... exactly my point about the Camber. :P

I had a look at the Toe Arms earlier. There's no obvious adjustments I can see.

Unless the Bolt/Bush(I can think of the word) are offset. Like the factory Camber arms?

I was also thinking of standing the wheels right up closer to -0.5 Degrees or flush with the guard,

which ever of the 2 occurs first. :rofl:

Thanks for the Input :P

JDM_Spirit Community Regular

JDM_Spirit

Posted
Posted

Can anyone please confirm how the Rear Toe rods are adjustable?

Mine doesnt have a thread like the Toe arms on a Hicas equipped vehicle.

Im guessing the bolts/mounts are off set to allow abit of adjustment?

Thanks

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
Can anyone please confirm how the Rear Toe rods are adjustable?

Mine doesnt have a thread like the Toe arms on a Hicas equipped vehicle.

Im guessing the bolts/mounts are off set to allow abit of adjustment?

Thanks

Eccentric bolt on the car end of the toe arms.

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
While I was fitting the rear Bilsteins, I thought I would take some pictures of the rear suspension and show the camber and toe adjusters.

In this picture of the RHS rear suspension, the camber adjuster is on the inner end of the upper control arm and the toe adjuster is on the inner end of the tie rod. Note the yellow and white factory marks near the toe adjuster.

1903Rear_Suspension_Small1.jpg

This is closer shot of the LHS rear camber adjuster, it is is the mid position as shown by the hole being verticle. I wanted less negative camber as ours had almost 1 degree. Full adjustment brought that down to 0.25 degree. That should improve the rear tyre wear and increase the traction.

1903Camber_Adjuster_Small.jpg

Rotating the adjuster so that the hole (in the wide side of the washer) is towards the wheel means more negative camber. Rotating it so the hole is towards the diff means less negative camber. Having the hole on the bottom means that you get more change to negative camber as the rear end squats (under acceleration). Having the hole to the top means less change to negative camber as the rear end squats.

Hope that is of some help.:(

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
captinsane Community Regular

captinsane

Posted
Posted

refer this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/33...ag-t325597.html

i'm told I am riding on the bumpstops.... and it feels like it... but bumpstops are at recommended height, springs and shocks check out fine.... 330mm centre of wheel to guard w/ SK's bilstein whiteline combo

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

1. You are too low. Try going up one circlip groove.

2. Try to find a better suspension shop than Peddars ...but not before you get them to fix your wheelnut problem with new studs and nuts. Wouldn't have happened if they torqued the wheelnuts as a professional should.

captinsane Community Regular

captinsane

Posted
Posted
1. You are too low. Try going up one circlip groove.

2. Try to find a better suspension shop than Peddars ...but not before you get them to fix your wheelnut problem with new studs and nuts. Wouldn't have happened if they torqued the wheelnuts as a professional should.

thanks mate.. that confirms it for me.... I'll get it raised and trim the b'stops a tiny bit too... on wed peddars will install NISMO mounts and i'll get them to do wheel studs, raise it, wheel alignment... finished....

I've done it myself a few times now but I am past caring and i've got better things to do with my only 4 free weekends this year than raise the car... again... blegh.

Cheers heaps mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...