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There isn't really a "best" place for the hole....what you need is a wheel alignment, the will minimise the rear camber as much as possible while keeping it as even as possible. keeping in mind it is only 0.25o there isn't much they can do.

unless you are hitting the track you do not want more camber on the rear - all you will get is tyres worn out more quickly. People use the camber kits to reduce the amount of camber not increase it (camber increases when you lower the car as well, so if you change shocks/springs it will be even worse)

Just a note, I initially installed the camber kit, but after lowering the car slightly, there wasn't a lot it did or me, and I was still chewing up tyres in 10,000km. I ended up getting adjustble camber arms, a simple bolt on from skyline parts. I'm unsure of the brand, but any decent suspension mechanic should be able to get a set of adjustable camber arms.

unless you are hitting the track you do not want more camber on the rear - all you will get is tyres worn out more quickly. People use the camber kits to reduce the amount of camber not increase it (camber increases when you lower the car as well, so if you change shocks/springs it will be even worse)

there you go with generalizations

hi duncan

i probably wasn't very clear as i understand the basics, i was just curious about the dynamic changes to camber as the suspension compresses depending on the location of that hole.....and any practical applications of that knowledge.

currently we are maxed out on camber adjustment and i am definitely looking to reduce the neg on the rear. the rear height is about 370 centre of wheel to guard so not really that low. the car has done >20,000km on the bilsteins, upgraded swaybars etc and i am looking to fine tune the handling to improve tyre wear/handling balance hence the Q about the amount of camber change with the whiteline kits.

ps. grant if you want to add something specific it would be appreciated, making snide remarks isn't helping anyone.

Edited by wolverine

PS: i use camber arms to increase camber for clearance, and so do many others

just saying generalizations are bad, like others were complaining about when someone made them about aussies.

Anyways. 20k km is awesome i wish i got 3000 on tires.

if your stock adjustment isnt working enugh, buy camber arms

its liek 200 bucks, and you can get some from nengun or someone locally.

TONS of adjustment

take yoru stock arms at full positive camber adjustment

and you get anothe rinch or so of adjustment with the camber arm.

its fantastic

it allows me to go from -20* (what my cedric is at now) to -3* (an alignment i had done when i had ot take the car for inspecation)

and this is with the stock adjustment (which is retained) at full negative as well. so you could potentially go back to 0* at my current height.

every degree of camber normally allows 5mm of movement of the top of the wheel

grant, i don't want to (re)start a slinging match. Lets just agree your needs are very specific, particularly in the stagea forum. Yes I need different things for my race car but thats not relevent in this context is it?

The fronts come standard with 2 grooves, the rear with one. The going rate at machine shops is around $5 per additional groove, x 8 grooves x 4 shocks = $160.

The Group Buy Bilsteins already come with the grooves added ie, no additional charge.

Cheers

Gary

I have just read all 24 pages of this thread and learned a lot. Thanks to all the guys who posted their experiences and especially to SK for his wealth of knowledge and patience in explaining things.

I have lowered my RS4T 30mm with Tein springs and fitted Bilsteins all round specially built for the application by a Bilstein factory trained specialist and the handling is transformed - cornering speeds up but still with a decent ride and no bottoming out and the car goes just where its pointed but I am inspired by this thread to change the sway bars as well. Being in NZ probably means that the group buy will not be economical because of freight but I will look into it.

Thanks again to all.

  • 2 weeks later...

it looks the same

but he R32TGR (iirc if thats the one i have sitting here useless)

Is about an inch and a half narrower

and the bends on the outside, and about a half inch too far inwards where they start adn dont allow it to bolt on

rear

just took a 32 gtr one out of my mates car and haven't looked at mine as to whether or not it'll fit

it's obviously much lighter than the cusco/whiteline/whatever ones but i figure for a free upgrade it might have been worth it

R32 GTR rear bar is too narrow. Plus they are hollow and so hardly an upgrade on what you already have.

Cheers

Gary

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