Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, if anybody has an extra clutch fan setup that I could try, let me know..

I'm happy to pay shipping...

But, let's get some specs in terms of distance from the motor, etc. To see if it will fit....

I cut my core support and moved my radiator nearly two inches forward, so maybe it would work...

I'm still not sure this is the problem though..

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That has to be it ay?I've heard nothing but bad from electric fans in place of the clutch ones!!

one of the guys here in Vic uses one.

one big one on the 33-t, no overheat problems on a hot day

I'm not running a 26... but with a 20 and a FMIC that you can see in my sig... my 2 permacools do just fine. Since I fixed my leak on the back of the turbo I've had no overheating problems or temp change off "normal" in 40C deg weather with 80+ % humidity.

Did you bleed the air after you found the leak? I agree with Joel in that you should definitely make sure all of the air is bled from the system... that would be the cheapest fix if that's the problem.

As for the thermo... I'm running the Z32 TT thermo in my 20... but I can't tell you if you can use that in a 26... maybe someone knows if you can X-ref between a 26 and a 20 thermostat.

Here's some good info on cooling systems... http://www.mkiv.com/faq/faqtt.html#enginecooling

Good luck bud... sounds like your making progress... even if it is slow... it's still progress

Are you sure the thermo fans are working - do you have a pilot / tell-tale light for when they come on? At 100 C, they should be on permanently.

Try a cooler plug, say PFR6A-11, gapped to 0.8mm (approx 32 thou)

If the engine is running rich, then it's less likely to overheat, because the excess fuel helps cool the engine.

The thermo fans are always on.. I have them wired into the ignition, so that they come on when the car is started...

The engine is running extremely rich...It reaks of fuel...

If you run retarded ignition timing, I think that causes the engine to run hot. Or if the cam timing is retarded, that can cause the engine to run hot.

Did you have the injectors cleaned before the engine was fitted into the car? Who knows what they picked up lying aroiund a yard for any period of time.

I haven't checked timing yet, but that is something I plan to do next...

I was hoping to get the car to the radiator specialist today to have the coolant system pressure tested for leaks, but i got caught up at the tire place...

I was running 275/35/18 BFG Drag Radials, but they didn't handle outside of straight line. (But they were free, sponsored by BFG, so I can't complain.

So, I finally got some BFG KD's in today, 285/30/18, little less tire height which really makes a difference. So far, the car hasn't rubbed abit....

I will update this post tomorrow when I hear back from the radiator specialist...

  • 2 weeks later...

I had the cooling system pressure checked, but the results came back that everything was OK...

So, I don't think its a leak...

One thing I need to mention is that there is oil in my coolant overflow tank again...

I'm really thinking its a headgasket with a crack in it...

If it is indeed a bad headgasket, can I simply buy a new one?

Do I need to have the head machined? Or is this a simple plug and play deal?

If you have carried out an engine swap, you have no-doubt upgraded to a large front mount cooler as well. I think you are having air direction flow issues, in that the air is not going through your cooler or rad properly. Are you able to measure intake temps after the cooler?

you might find that the air is bypassing the intake duct and going under the car?!?!

As for the oil in the overflow tank - not good. Take the oil cap off and see if you have a creamy light coffee colour foam up the top of the cap (best to do it after a bit of a drive). if the gasket needs replacing, you will need to have the head machined for sure before fitting the new gasket.

See if you can put some padding between the outside face of the cooler and the edge of the front bar opening (most coolers do not sit flush with the bar opening, this can cause the air to take the easiest route AROUND the cooler and rad.

Get a leak-down test done too, that will identify failing cylinders. 140 psi is pretty low for an RB-turbo.

*EDIT* Just had a look at the RB26DETT engine specs, compression should be 12.0 bar @ 300rpm = 174psi. Lower limit value is 9.0bar @ 300rpm = 130psi. Your engine is sailing close to the lower limit there....

99C is far too hot, something around 88-93 range is more like it. 97C when on a dyno at full noise with poor airflow....

Are you sure its oil?

I would sure think so...

It looks like normal black slimy oil...

And NO, I havent had a C02 test done yet? I've never heard of this... Surely, after all these tests I've run, it would be obvious its a headgasket if it was..

I'm thinking that probably their is a small crack in the headgasket that is letting the oil in the coolant...

Unless its coming in somewhere else?

Guys, I'm so confused right now and hate to replace a headgasket if I don't need to..

It's 11:20 PM at night here, but I'm going to go up to the carwash and take a picture of the oilish substance in my overflow tank...

Chris

Here's the pics...

The first one is the normal coolant color, I prefer Toyota Coolant as opposed to anything else stateside...

I drained the coolant and just took pictures of the residue that didn't come out with the coolant...

It's a slimy substance that obviously doesn't wanna flow out with the water, which makes me feel its oil of some kind... Has a black-brownish color to it.

coolant.jpg

coolant1.jpgcoolant2.jpgcoolant3.jpgcoolant4.jpg

Those pics were taken with me putting my digital camera lense into the overflow tank... Hopefully you guys can make out what your looking for...

Also, just to add a little info, that car has been sitting for about 4 hours in cool temperatures as I live in the mountains and it's pretty chilly tonight...

A CO (not CO2) test is a check of the coolant for carbon monoxide. If there is CO in the coolant then combustion gases are leaking past the head gasket.

A coolant pressure test does not guarantee a result one way or the other. Only a leak-down test puts a 'reasonable' amount of pressure in the cylinder & allows you so sustain that pressure for long enough to determine the condition of the engine.

I tried researching this CO test.... Where do you get this done at? I can't find anything online about CO testing for coolant...

I'm heading to a big city today here in the states where I could get it done most likely, but give me some guidance here...

it's hard to tell from the pics, but in the fourth pic from the bottom there seems to be some sort of silt in that fluid? It doesn't quite look like oil to me. It's just a stab but an engine and full cooling system flush may sort this problem.

Richard

it's hard to tell from the pics, but in the fourth pic from the bottom there seems to be some sort of silt in that fluid? It doesn't quite look like oil to me. It's just a stab but an engine and full cooling system flush may sort this problem.

Richard

I have had it backflushed, using a water hose and Prestone Do-It-Yourself Flush Kit at my house...

But, I really don't think its a blockage issue.....

I really feel there is another reason its overheating...

Any other suggestions?

Come on guys, I need all the help I can get...

I really don't think its an airflow issue. I am going to have some custom induction vents built tomorrow to scoop air from the underside of the car...

I really feel this is something more mechanical...

Any decent mechanic should know about the CO test on the cooling system.

I would build an undertray that spans the front bar to the engine X-member. I had one on my Z years ago, and it was quite efficient at helping the radiator cool the engine. I was going to do the same for my R32 after I put a thermo on it. I could get the thermo to turn on even at highway cruise conditions in low 20s (deg C). But I put the factory fan back on instead.

Have I mentioned a series of articles at www.autospeed.com on siting undertrays and bonnet vents. I think you really need to be creating a low pressure region behind the radiator, so that air has to pass thru the radiator and cool the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...